Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, rb25det with hks turbo, car was garaged for a few years and a day at tracknoticed the blades evenly chipped and oil in intake side of turbo. Looking for advice to prevent and also tips to repair before disaster strikes. Cam covers piped to catchcan, so only return to intake is via bov. Thinking could be oil return lines blocked and being pumped through bearing seal into intake, then hitting amd damaging blades. If i clear oil return lines, should i also rebuild turbo?

How do i post a pic?

Thanks in advance

Bruce

Turbo sounds like it is rooted.

Sounds like it has a lot of play and the compressor wheel has been touching the compressor housing.

Oil is highly likely because the turbo seals are starting to fail.

Rebuild or replace turbo.

If the damage is in the centre of the blades and not around the edges, then it's nothing to do with the core.

Some debris has clearly gone through the turbo at some point so a good start point would be looking @ the filter choice/setup.

Won't be anything to do with the oil return as the stock return setup leads to oil in the intake anyway.

Best to see an photo. Damages on the top means foreign object while on the side means cartridge failure or bent shaft.

Its rare to see an compressor wheel break while without the presence of foreign object or cartridge failure this days. This happens only if the compressor wheel it self is not designed for high shaft speed or high boost applications. Those type of wheel generally has very straight and tall blade profile, like certain version of the To4bs that are made for generators.

post-59358-0-28919800-1347088664_thumb.jpg

Hi Guys,

thanks for the feedback.

the wear is even of each blade, sounds like its debris through the cone type apexi filter? setup if filter, thru Z32 AFM then stock intake pipe with the cam cover return blocked off (returning to catch can instead).

while this would effect peak power efficiency, I just want realiability for track at the moment, do you guys think this is sustainable, or should I get the wheel replaced? indicative cost if I take the turbo body into a shop?

thanks

Bruce

That is not cause by oil, or lack there of. That's dirt/fine stone/debris going through the comp wheel at some point.

I've had Apexi filters and never seen any damage like that.

HKS Mushroom filters have the name "poisonous" for a reason as they tend to collapse in the centre (on the inside) over time and send foam through the intake which isn't a good thing and you generally won't notice until it's lost a bit of material already... Seen two do it over the years. Would not use one given a choice.

apparently oil filters are not the best option with mass airflow meters, the oil vapor fowls the electrode,,,?

Lots of people use the oil K&N, it might be an issue technically... But it's certainly not prolific as no one can think of has had any issues including myself.

That is not cause by oil, or lack there of. That's dirt/fine stone/debris going through the comp wheel at some point.

I've had Apexi filters and never seen any damage like that.

HKS Mushroom filters have the name "poisonous" for a reason as they tend to collapse in the centre (on the inside) over time and send foam through the intake which isn't a good thing and you generally won't notice until it's lost a bit of material already... Seen two do it over the years. Would not use one given a choice.

thats good then cause im not keen on oiling filters, would having a cold air intake in the lower front bumper collect this kind of dirt/bad idea ? i know for wet weather its a bad idea obviously, but otherwise it seems perfect, series 2 that is.

Edited by SliverS2

I'd also be worried were the debris ended up that caused the damage.. If you can get hold of a bore scope it may be embedded into the piston or cylinder head. Hopefully it just kept going on it merry way out the exhaust pipe. Its definately dirt,debris..Does the AFM still have the mesh in it?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...