Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

will i finally got around to removing my side door nismo sticker, and after removing the first letter, i found out that the sticker had been clear coated :( So after removing the whole sticker, i can still see the NISMO up close :D

Does anyone have any idea how i can remove it or what to do thanks?

mike

Or try straight eucalyptus oil on a cotton ball and rub the residue off. You can buy it from coles or woolies in the mecidinal section. Also good for mozzie bites. It gets rid of the sticky residue or paper residue left behind by stickers. I have never used it on a car body, but its been fine on glass, walls, cupboards etc.

I wouldnt bother trying to fix it. I had a blitz access ecu sticker on my bonnet when it came into the country. After spending 6 hours picking it off (it had been baked on by the sun), i realised that it had taken the layer of clear coat off the top of the paintwork. I highly doubt a buff will fix this, ive tried everything with not even a slight reduction.

Dont think its been clearcoated onto the paint, but it being there for so long has caused it to come off with the sticker. On mine you can actually feel that the area where the sticker was on is lower than the rest of the paintwork! badness!

:D

Red17

Are you 100% it has taken the clearcoat off mike? stickers have a tendancy to leave adhesive on the door that looks similar to that, a bit of prepsol would remove it.

I doubt they would have clearcoated over the sticker, and if they had, the sticker would have been damn near impossible to remove.

I could be wrong, but you should try some prepsol to remove residue, then a nice cut and polish to bring it back up.

memphis, im guessing its clearcoat :s , thats why i post the photo. when i remove it like clear stuff come off with the sticker.

To get it off i use hairdrier, after the sticker came off there was white stuff left behide, which i guess was glue so i use methylated spirits to remove that, but like i said above clear stuff came off with the sticker and i can also pick at it

I guess they must have put a very fine coat over it, grab some cut n polish and see how that goes.

Normally adhesive on the sticker is clear...

make sure you get stuff thats clearcoat safe, you may need to get some 2000 wet n dry and cut back the clear a bit, then polish it. If you dont feel safe doing this a detailer can do it, but they charge alot.

thanks memphis :P

if u know any good detailers, u can recommend can u plz pm me them details (also if its in the magla that would be good)

also i have notice that when i feel the area the area which has the nismo is lower compair to the rest of the door (if u get me)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...