Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb 25 Is An Oil Cooler Needed,

waanders

By waanders,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

waanders Apprentice

waanders

Posted
Posted

Currently have my head off and am comsidering removing oil cooler and fitting a rb30 threat adaptor to fit filter strait to block and running no cooler at all, its only a street car, am just trieng to do whats needed while am at this stage, also can i plug the hoses that run down to the cooler? Iv also read about people blocking the big coolant line barbs at front and rear of block to, what do you guys reckon?

Cheers, chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410470-rb-25-is-an-oil-cooler-needed/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The water to oil heat exchanger can be a reliability issue. If the coolant has not been well looked after in the car over the years, then corrosion will eat the heat exchanger and if it opens up you get oil+water, which is seldom good. On that basis it may be worth considering getting rid of it.

For a street car, you probably do not need an oil cooler at all, even the oil-water one. Older RB engines did not have the oil-water units. They are not actually intended to cool the oil. They are intended to warm it up faster. The faster an engine comes to operating temperature, the faster it can comply with emissions limits. That's pretty much the sole reason they got added. They do help cool the oil a bit, but seeing as they just add that heat to the coolant, it's not exactly gaining you a lot, as the radiator could probably cool the engine the same amount without any heat coming from the oil.

If you do remove it, don't block the water hoses. Join them together.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

If you do remove it, don't block the water hoses. Join them together.

Reason being? Just curious as to why you'd need to join them?

I looked into this a while back, an RB20 runs a similar type cooling setup under the plenum but with no oil cooler obviously. Blocking the ports for the oil cooler would in fact mimic an RB20 cooling route setup under the plenum.

Hence why i'm curious as to why you said join them together.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Dead legs with coolant in them are bad. Old nasty coolant sludge trap anyone?

Point taken.

So, join them up or weld them up then. Same obviously goes if your deleting the heater obviously.

While semi on the subject of coolant. Coolant filters, yay or nay?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's a tough one. They have their place. A well maintained cooling system won't need one. I suspect the only time you want to put a filter in is if you have had an event that has put crap into the cooling system and would like to pull it out. Run it for a while, check it frequently, take it out when it stops pulling stuff out. If you have one in there all the time and don't check it regularly, it may just turn out to be the cause of a failure rather than the prevention.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

How long?

Are you running E85?

Find someone with a RB20DET and ask them, I do however my old RB20DET's oil taking ages to warm up when compared to the RB25DET. Would leave my house, drive to the gym and the oil temp would be still lower than the water temp.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Find someone with a RB20DET and ask them, I do however my old RB20DET's oil taking ages to warm up when compared to the RB25DET. Would leave my house, drive to the gym and the oil temp would be still lower than the water temp.

Johnny, did you have an oil cooler? If you did, did you have a inline thermostat?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Yeah I used B&M core and the Permacool inline thermostat and Permacool relocator.

Took ages to warm up man, mind you there was like over 3m of hose used as well (I know you hate homo relocators lol)

I have yet to install an oil cooler to my previous R33 and my current one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...