Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just don't have the time to write up the guide, plus it may be a little confusing as it isn't an m35.

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

A tractor usually. :P

I forgive you Cam.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3434&Car_Type=G35&UID=20121009182338150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

Same concept, without the thermostat, and they didn't fixing the air bleed issue. That is the pathfinder coolant mod, I imagine that assembly will hold air in the thermostat too.

Mine also replaces the stock plastic bleed point with a billet alloy body and high pressure ball valve.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzp...8150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

I looked at for some time Ryan and asked if it was bolt on and what, if any mods needed to be made to install.

The response?

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

What?

Don't think its weld on. The original piece for my car (dunno about NM35s) has a female end, and the goldy coloured anodised piece pushes in and secures into the alloy pipe.

The kit seems to have a lipped edge- so it wouldn't push in, but a bit of silicon tube and a couple of clamps would sort it out just fine.

I think the bigger issue is the cross over exhaust manifold pipe, and the extra stuff round the back there.

I like how their kit "lowers temps by 20 degrees", when I read that... The temps are still controlled by the stock thermostat ffs.

Ours is the same female fitting Alex, but the cast alloy pipe is a different shape for that reason, it would hit the crossover I think. ^^

OK, no steak knives please ... I am a vegetarian!

But I do have a relatively standard 2001 stagea and my Galaxy series 2 phone takes good pics so I am interested.

Also as a noob who took a long time to do the brake wire cut simply because I couldn't find pics I think its important to have good visual guides up here. Yeah Yeah I didn't take the pics either... next time I have the glove box out and on the back seat I will do a step by step on the 'brake wire snip' for new noobs. If you don't send me steak knives and do talk me through it, I'll do the same for this. :rolleyes:

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

Dibs!

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm going to try and fit this kit up on the weekend. Would I be right in saying it'll take an hour or two to remove the plenum and get down to the middle of the V to fit the top plate, about half an hour to actually fit the kit, and an hour or so to put it back together?

Should be about right. You shouldn't have to disconnect the fuel rail from the lines, just flip it over onto the drivers side guard.

Make sure you silicone the top plate, you don't want it leaking...

Shouldn't need to silicone it.

We used a new gasket for each of ours although the existing gasket would probably be good enough.

Gasket is the same as on a VQ35 in case you want to grab one from Nissan, Ryan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...