Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

PM replied.

UPDATE:

Upgraded Turbos - SOLD

O2 Sensors - SOLD

Coolant intake temp sensor - SOLD

Thermostat Snout and Thermostat - SOLD

Open to offers on all items.

Cheers,

Pete

  • 4 weeks later...

UPDATE and PRICE DROP

- Drift Racing/Bucket seat, black, R34 GT-R style, comes with rails to fit all C34 Stagea (as was fitted to my Stagea), R32, R33, R34 Skylines and probably Silvias too. Will not freight, pickup only. Saw these in latest Autobarn ad (no rails) for $150...
$350 $200

- Tein "Type Wagon" adjustable coilovers to suit automatic C34 Stagea (Series I and II), "Low Down Spec Cool Style Master". Fronts have been rebuilt (with genuine Tein seals) and rods re-chromed. Have receipts, not fitted since rebuild (due to sale of car). Rears are still good. Adjustable spring seats, so adjustable in height, damping is fixed valve. Get on these quick!
$750 $650

- Stock Stagea rear upper camber/control arms, left and right side. Also have FR &RR swaybars.
$20 for both offers

- Space Saver spare wheel, T125/90D16.
$15 $10

- High Mount Twin Turbo Kit, gave me 347AWKW. Boxed up ready to freight!
$1600 $1400 ono

- R32/R33 S1 Coilpacks, full set, with mounting frame, 8000km old, P/N: 22433 60U02.
$150 $100

- R32/R33 S1 Coilpacks, full set, P/N: 22433 60U01.
$100 $80

- CAS with mounting bracket.
$100 $80

- R33 N1 dumps, with heat shields, 8000km old.
$100 $80 for both or $60 $50 each

- FR and RR hotside compressor outlet snouts, includes the rear OEM rubber hose.
$50 $40 for both

  • 3 weeks later...

32rrr,

As ^^^ above, the CAS is for R32 and R33 RB26.

Whitenight,

Sorry mate, all hoses (silicone and rubber) have all gone.

- R32/R33 S1 Coilpacks, full set, with mounting frame, 8000km old, P/N: 22433 60U02.
SOLD

- FR and RR hotside compressor outlet snouts, includes the rear OEM rubber hose.
SOLD

- High Mount Twin Turbo Kit

Deposit Taken, will be sold tomorrow.

Cheers,
Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...