Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While my s1 was sitting for a month or two waiting for me to finish the water pump and cambelt replacement, it turns out the rear shocks leaked out and are now good for nothing. Earthquake ruined roads here are partially to blame.

I've seen some advice on here about replacement shocks, mostly upgrading or lowering, neither of which I'm interested in. I just want to replace the standard shocks, unless it's no more expensive to upgrade.

I've sourced a local supplier $153+GST each - Anyone in Chch/NZ know of a better price than that? (bear in mind 4WD)

Is there anything particularly tricky to this replacement? Do I need special tools? If there is no guide on SAU (I couldn't find one) I'll see about documenting my steps.

I'd appreciate any advice/tips on this job...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412168-rear-shocks-replacement-guide/
Share on other sites

Rears are super easy. Easier than the front, which can be a bit tricky (read: dangerous) with spring compressors, if you have tapered springs.

Have a read here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/77849-r3233-replacing-shocks-installing-coilovers/page__hl__strut

With the stagea you dont have to pull out any of the interior to get to the strut tops, except for the plastic covers which are on top of the strut towers.

The only special tools are spring compressors.

Ok cheers, will need spring compressors. A mate at work is telling me they are separate and I wouldn't need compressors.

Guide looks good but some photos blanking so maybe I'll make another version.

I also see from a sticky topic here that the wgnc34 can use the same rear shocks as the r33 gtst. Would I be likely to get a cheaper deal but just as appropriate shock if I got quotes asking for r33 gtst shocks? I'm wondering how a heavy ol 4wd stagea could have the same shocks...

They are not the same. Here's a set for $200 (you can use your current springs if you prefer)

http://www.trademe.c...n-525713324.htm

If you want brand new I don't think you'll do much better than $150 each.

The job is fairly easy so long as you don't rush and are sensible. I didn't have spring compressors I used wire ties but spring compressors are easier and you can hire them (or maybe borrow from an SDU member in Christchurch). Sorry I'm too far away to lend a hand.

Thanks for the info guys.

One thing I'm not clear on is what shocks are interchangeable if I were to get second hand - eg, can I use rear shocks from a Rwd? how about a 4wd turbo ?(since mine is 4WD N/A)

I'm in the process of setting up an inhouse wiki at my work place so that all the engineers can share and record their designs as well as facts/specs about the products.

I reckon what is needed is a stagea Wiki, so that you don't have to wade through hundreds of conflicting forum posts to get the lowdown. The forums are good for discussion, but to get a simple piece of info. Maybe I'll look into setting one up...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...