Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 96 rs4 stag has had a problem since I have brought it , driving specifically between 85-115kph, I would estimate, I have a shuddering or 'pulsing' sensation coming from what I believe to be the rear axle of the car. Like additional torque is being applied to the rear driveshafts momentarily in an on/off fashion. I would say that it is not a reducing speed sensation, as in abs acting on the rear wheels for some even more bizarre reason, especially as it only happens at a light load throttle position and the sensation is destinctly coming from the rear end. Also it only seems to only happen when it's been running for a while or fully warmed up. Anybody got any suggestions or ideas as to what could be causing this to happen?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412934-stagea-100kph-pulsing-shaking/
Share on other sites

Is it an awd car? Are all your tyres the same size and type? Tried turning left and right and listening for wheel bearings? Jack the car up and have a look? Wheels binding (foot or handbrake)?

Is it an awd car? Are all your tyres the same size and type? Tried turning left and right and listening for wheel bearings? Jack the car up and have a look? Wheels binding (foot or handbrake)?

Yeah it's awd and yeah all same tyres and same size. I can't hear anything while I'm driving. And it doesn't feel like anything binding up. Like I say it only really starts happening after driving for 20 mins or so and can only notice it at higher speeds

But thanks for your suggestions

Will be rest tyres are worn slightly more than the fronts

Mine is doing it ATM so I have had to make it rwd till I sort out new tires

Funny thing is that they aren't even that worn but the fronts are brand new

First up, I'd get the wheels balanced. This will shop up 90% of your problems. If the tyres are unevenly worn, the tyre shop will tell you (they like to make money). Uneven tyre wear can cause the AWD system to start sending torque to the front when it's not needed. If the rims are buckled or out of round, they'll tell you. The other thing it'll fix is unbalanced wheels.

I've had a vibration caused by all of the above.

  • 5 months later...

hhhhrrrmm sounds like my issue around 100 KM/S + -,the car shudders like it doesnt know what gear to select.

im about to have a shift kit fitted and oil changed ill let you know if this fixes the issue i think it is, which is oil thats lost its viscosity and causing the auto to do silly things. if it does fix this issue try sending a message to Jetwreck, he is doing all of my work as i cant be fkt, coz im lazy................... Actually I just read your sig and it says ur in Auckland and im pretty sure he wont go there unless you pay for it. but it might be worth asking him for a decent oil for your auto unless you know of one your self?

Edited by loymclure

I had this problem too, in my 2000 S2, really annoying and sometimes felt like the car was jerking back and forth at 80 - 100 km/h, turned out to be a really simple fix, check the attessa fluid level in the reservoir located in the back behind the inspection cover on the right hand side, make sure the engine is running as it will appear full if the engine is off, topped it up to the correct level with ATF/ power steering fluid, problem solved. Regards Craig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...