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Fresh Build Blowby - Tuner Halted Tune

murrayis

By murrayis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Been a while since I've been on the forums, I've finally sent my 5 year build off to be tuned but the tuner called me today to say he has concerns by the amount of smoke/blow by coming out of the filter on the catch can.

He said that he ran it on the dyno for almost 2 hours yesterday while getting the idle sorted etc hoping it could clear up when warmed up, He stated that he hasn't been over 2500rpm.

His concern is the potential for a ring not sealing, and that he recommended the engine be pulled down and checked for issues.

I've tried to get onto the engine builder Paul however been unsuccessful so far. I've spoken to a few people who've said it sounds like the bore could be glazed over and just needs to be given some to clear it out and they asked if it was running rich when first fired up which it was 9:1

I don't know what I should tell them to do? a) Pull the engine and check it out or b) wind it up a little more on the dyno and see if it clears up.

Engine had done roughly 20 - 30 minutes of idle/free revving when I first started it up looking for leaks and getting the timing adjusted prior to going to the tuner.

The Tuner comes recommended and highly regarded in QLD.

I'm looking for opinions and recommendations? Blowby similar to this vid:

Engine is a RB24

Cheers

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Could be rings could be glazed bores could be valve guides worn.... Everything else ok? Boosting fine? The amount of times I've seen boost hoses installed wrong pressurising the crankcase is it blowing out the dipstick ?

Do a cylinder leakage test 100%

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

its hard to tell without being there but you could just load it up to say 3000rpm and vary the load 0-6 odd psi aka engine dyno run in procedure and see if its beds in, just wanna make sure its not butted rings or similar though.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted (edited)

20-30 minutes idling wouldnt have helped, neither woudl 2 hours dynoing under 2500rpm, i would do some high load tuning, but i doubt it will go away. 4000rpm full load(low boost) for 10-15 seconds at a time listening carefully for knock. Have you done a comp test?

Edited by Adriano
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Engine had done roughly 20 - 30 minutes of idle/free revving when I first started it up looking for leaks and getting the timing adjusted prior to going to the tuner.

Sounds like you've caused your own problem by not running it in properly and stuffing around on first start up.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thinking about it its prob been 15 minutes max and it wasn't idling it was free revving. And it wasn't all at once it was 3-4 times over 6 months just to keep fluids around the engine.

I couldn't drive the car due to the haltech just having a base map.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the consensus seems to be give a bit more load and see if it clears up, I guess for an engine that was built for 10,000 rpm 2500rpm is idle and with a 35r it won't make any form of boost until 4k

The catch can is empty so it just seems to be crank case ventilation.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

The video you posted doesn't show any excessive blowby. It shows normal crankcase ventilation, however.

Haha your obviously not serious? i would be pulling that thing off my dyno.... if any engine i built or tuned looked like that id be ashamed even a car running 30+psi should never breathe like that.
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Haha your obviously not serious? i would be pulling that thing off my dyno.... if any engine i built or tuned looked like that id be ashamed even a car running 30+psi should never breathe like that.

Deadly serious. Ventilation like that can be caused by a number of different reasons. Anything that runs methanol is going to vent like that and a lot that run E85 will also. It doesn't necessarily indicate there is a problem.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Nope - that's what it's in for base tune and run in

You should be speaking with the tuner, not the engine builder. Why would the tuner be fixing idle on an engine that needs to be run in first? Running an engine in also requires more than 2500rpm to do correctly.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Engine should have been run in moderately hard on first start up (if possible - obviously check for leaks or any issues on the first start up) and then straight into loading the engine up. Full loads are moderate varying RPM and light boost conditions. Idle should have been the last thing to look at.

Do a compression test and leak down test and that will give you a good indication. Then try running it in properly and then once that is done, do another leak down test.

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