Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Been a while since I've been on the forums, I've finally sent my 5 year build off to be tuned but the tuner called me today to say he has concerns by the amount of smoke/blow by coming out of the filter on the catch can.

He said that he ran it on the dyno for almost 2 hours yesterday while getting the idle sorted etc hoping it could clear up when warmed up, He stated that he hasn't been over 2500rpm.

His concern is the potential for a ring not sealing, and that he recommended the engine be pulled down and checked for issues.

I've tried to get onto the engine builder Paul however been unsuccessful so far. I've spoken to a few people who've said it sounds like the bore could be glazed over and just needs to be given some to clear it out and they asked if it was running rich when first fired up which it was 9:1

I don't know what I should tell them to do? a) Pull the engine and check it out or b) wind it up a little more on the dyno and see if it clears up.

Engine had done roughly 20 - 30 minutes of idle/free revving when I first started it up looking for leaks and getting the timing adjusted prior to going to the tuner.

The Tuner comes recommended and highly regarded in QLD.

I'm looking for opinions and recommendations? Blowby similar to this vid:

Engine is a RB24

Cheers

Could be rings could be glazed bores could be valve guides worn.... Everything else ok? Boosting fine? The amount of times I've seen boost hoses installed wrong pressurising the crankcase is it blowing out the dipstick ?

Do a cylinder leakage test 100%

its hard to tell without being there but you could just load it up to say 3000rpm and vary the load 0-6 odd psi aka engine dyno run in procedure and see if its beds in, just wanna make sure its not butted rings or similar though.

20-30 minutes idling wouldnt have helped, neither woudl 2 hours dynoing under 2500rpm, i would do some high load tuning, but i doubt it will go away. 4000rpm full load(low boost) for 10-15 seconds at a time listening carefully for knock. Have you done a comp test?

Edited by Adriano
Engine had done roughly 20 - 30 minutes of idle/free revving when I first started it up looking for leaks and getting the timing adjusted prior to going to the tuner.

Sounds like you've caused your own problem by not running it in properly and stuffing around on first start up.

Thinking about it its prob been 15 minutes max and it wasn't idling it was free revving. And it wasn't all at once it was 3-4 times over 6 months just to keep fluids around the engine.

I couldn't drive the car due to the haltech just having a base map.

So the consensus seems to be give a bit more load and see if it clears up, I guess for an engine that was built for 10,000 rpm 2500rpm is idle and with a 35r it won't make any form of boost until 4k

The catch can is empty so it just seems to be crank case ventilation.

The video you posted doesn't show any excessive blowby. It shows normal crankcase ventilation, however.

Haha your obviously not serious? i would be pulling that thing off my dyno.... if any engine i built or tuned looked like that id be ashamed even a car running 30+psi should never breathe like that.

Haha your obviously not serious? i would be pulling that thing off my dyno.... if any engine i built or tuned looked like that id be ashamed even a car running 30+psi should never breathe like that.

Deadly serious. Ventilation like that can be caused by a number of different reasons. Anything that runs methanol is going to vent like that and a lot that run E85 will also. It doesn't necessarily indicate there is a problem.

Nope - that's what it's in for base tune and run in

You should be speaking with the tuner, not the engine builder. Why would the tuner be fixing idle on an engine that needs to be run in first? Running an engine in also requires more than 2500rpm to do correctly.

Engine should have been run in moderately hard on first start up (if possible - obviously check for leaks or any issues on the first start up) and then straight into loading the engine up. Full loads are moderate varying RPM and light boost conditions. Idle should have been the last thing to look at.

Do a compression test and leak down test and that will give you a good indication. Then try running it in properly and then once that is done, do another leak down test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...