Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why is it a waste of money? You could save me some cash here.

Stock blocks have been proven reliable well past 800whp, so unless your building a dyno queen or drag monster... why bother.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will :)

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

My old set up was a 300rwkw set up and I didn't have half the stuff u have listed..

One thing I do suggest is upgrading your fuel pump to a new item nismo/stock what ever u want, and ensure it has plenty of volts to it..

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

This!

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will :)

This!

I'd run with a Nistune or an APex'i PFC.

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

So... you haven't actually used a Haltech? what reason's did you tuner give?

I've used a vipec/link and Haltech in my car. IMO Haltech is an awesome ECU, as good, if not better then a Vipec. Would not hesitate to buy another Haltech.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Haven't used a haltech, have been right there standing next to the dyno when cars with haltechs have been tuned.. There's a reason my tuner charges extra to do a haltech and that's cause they are a pain in the ass, he has a standard to which a car needs to be before he lets a car leave.. And haltechs take a lot longer to reach that standard.. And he knows his stuff I assure u

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...