$20K For New/rebuilt Engine. Options?

[wedge_r34gtr]

Why is it a waste of money? You could save me some cash here.

Stock blocks have been proven reliable well past 800whp, so unless your building a dyno queen or drag monster... why bother.

[DVS JEZ]

^^^ with the right prep work etc.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

^^^ Hence, that is why you would strengthen the OEM Block.

[R31Nismoid]

Which any decent RB engine builder already knows all about fixing the minor issues

[BCNR33GT-R]

Paul from Red R Racing probs the best in aus no doubt in newcastle.

[R31Nismoid]

Definitely stick with Newcastle, there are plenty of well respected workshops in every major centre that can build motors.

[Cyifly]

What about Will at JHH Racing in Brisbane? He is looking after my motor.

100 percent second that Jhh did my build and am over the moon with the results

[a20089]

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

[Roy]

Rather than spend 20k on the engine I would be taking my ...

Going to Moscow and renting...

Procuring....

And go about securing some entertainment...

That would be 20k well spent. Memories and an itch to last a lifetime

[wedge_r34gtr]

hahha GOLD! sounds like an awesome plan Ray

[numleg]

Roy wins

[GTR_JOEY]

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

[a20089]

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

[R31Nismoid]

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will

[GTR_JOEY]

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

[GTR_JOEY]

My old set up was a 300rwkw set up and I didn't have half the stuff u have listed..

One thing I do suggest is upgrading your fuel pump to a new item nismo/stock what ever u want, and ensure it has plenty of volts to it..

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

This!

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will

This!

I'd run with a Nistune or an APex'i PFC.

[wedge_r34gtr]

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

So... you haven't actually used a Haltech? what reason's did you tuner give?

I've used a vipec/link and Haltech in my car. IMO Haltech is an awesome ECU, as good, if not better then a Vipec. Would not hesitate to buy another Haltech.

Edited December 7, 2012 by wedge_r34gtr

[GTR_JOEY]

Haven't used a haltech, have been right there standing next to the dyno when cars with haltechs have been tuned.. There's a reason my tuner charges extra to do a haltech and that's cause they are a pain in the ass, he has a standard to which a car needs to be before he lets a car leave.. And haltechs take a lot longer to reach that standard.. And he knows his stuff I assure u

[jangles]

End of the day, it's the program that's in said ecu that counts most.