Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my understanding of this thread is that this fuel isn't recommended for non daily driven cars?

My cars lucky to be driven once a month sometimes, would this cause the fuel to go off?

If you ran 98 it could go off... I don't know how you got that information out of this thread.

Yes, there is a chance the fuel could absorb water, so make sure you don't stick the hose in the fuel tank. :P

There was mention of fuel absorbing water and rusting injectors in non daily cars so just clarifying

I think you must have read what I wrote. Toshi tuned my car and when I asked about E85 he said its no good for a weekender (or less). I'm just going off what he said to me; water absorb = more chance of knock & potential to rust injectors if the car sits. I don't know anyone who's had that problem and I'm not going to let it worry me at all.

I'm tuning on e85 later this year because everyone seems to love the extra knock protection, lower EGTs, Higher power and it's readily accessible for me so why not!

i odnt no about E85 going off - i asked the same thing and he said he has a rally car that lives at the work shop and comes out jumps on the dyno for a check every 6 months or so or before meets and the e85 levels never drop and is still running after 5+ years of competing - - thats his experience anyway - i have just been told not to let it sit in plastic containers

I think you must have read what I wrote. Toshi tuned my car and when I asked about E85 he said its no good for a weekender (or less). I'm just going off what he said to me; water absorb = more chance of knock & potential to rust injectors if the car sits. I don't know anyone who's had that problem and I'm not going to let it worry me at all.

I'm tuning on e85 later this year because everyone seems to love the extra knock protection, lower EGTs, Higher power and it's readily accessible for me so why not!

My customer used E85 and he did not drive 2weeks then his car start engine knock (He could not hear knock but his ecu is power fc so he can see how many knocks).

He refill E85 then stop engine knock.

I think fuel pump and injecter is not problem.

I've had zero issues. If the engine is knocking on ethanol something is very wrong, mine will cruise on 20:1 without ping. Going by the PFC for knock doesn't sound very accurate...

Unless it was a bad batch of ethanol? I usually buy from high turnover servo's but I have never had an issue with this either. (and I have filled many hundreds of times)

Depends where you buy your e85 from

I've heard of a few united servos now having bad batches of fuel where the e85 has dissolved everything in the servo tank coming out like rust water blocking pumps and injectors to the point where the car won run

Caltex eflex haven't had issues ever

Is that what you run micko?

Sounds like they never upgraded the tank at the servo then, which is very illegal. Caltex would have the same issue with the old steel tanks, but they were obviously a lot more proactive with their rollout.

Yes mate been on eflex for ages with zero issues :)

Depends where you buy your e85 from

I've heard of a few united servos now having bad batches of fuel where the e85 has dissolved everything in the servo tank coming out like rust water blocking pumps and injectors to the point where the car won run

Caltex eflex haven't had issues ever

Is that what you run micko?

I was reading some yanky info on e85 the other day, and it mentioned that when installing fuel pumps in tank to insure that the terminals on the pumps and line had a non conductive cover or coating over them, because e85 is a conductive fuel and can short out in the tank and create fire.

Is that true I've never heard of anything like it before?

Exactly! Even if it did you got more power to drive away faster to extinguish flames :D

There is no oxygen in the tank, so no chance of a fire. Science! Anyway, my car exploding is of no concern to me if it goes faster :)

I was reading some yanky info on e85 the other day, and it mentioned that when installing fuel pumps in tank to insure that the terminals on the pumps and line had a non conductive cover or coating over them, because e85 is a conductive fuel and can short out in the tank and create fire.

Is that true I've never heard of anything like it before?

Lol. Mythbuster that shit. :P

The only way it becomes conductive afaik is when water is added. Probably best to just use the sealed Walbro 460L e85 pump to be safe.

I would think after 5 years on ethanol in my daily I would have dispelled most of the myths surrounding it, my car has not caught fire ever, the Walbro 255's are still running strong, and the fuel tank hasn't rusted away. I have also never cleaned the fuel filter... ;)

I was reading some yanky info on e85 the other day, and it mentioned that when installing fuel pumps in tank to insure that the terminals on the pumps and line had a non conductive cover or coating over them, because e85 is a conductive fuel and can short out in the tank and create fire.

Is that true I've never heard of anything like it before?

There is no oxygen in the tank, so no chance of a fire. Science! Anyway, my car exploding is of no concern to me if it goes faster :)

I am pretty sure there is oxygen present during installation of the pump.

I say plausible.

There will be air in the tank above the fuel but the vapour generally isn't as flammable in an enclosed space as people sometimes think .

The worry would be what was causing arcing across the electrical connections that may be exposed inside the fuel tank .

You'd think a pump drawing 18-20 amps would be more likely to do this than one drawing 8.6 amps .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...