Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at joining the M35 family fairly soon, but I am having trouble find afew key details that will help me buy the right one.

My main questions is, without jacking up every car I look at or laying black lines on the pavement, how do I tell it has the LSD option?

So far I know that:

250T RS Four had the option of LSD

250T RX Four didn't have the option of LSD

AR-X comes with LSD

Nissan Fast doesn't actually tell you if the car is fitted with the LSD option.

Can I tell by the diff housing? (If so, photos would be great :) )

I've read that the service manual states that the Turbo is a recommended replacement at 100k Service, is this true?

What boost do each model run standard? I know that the AR-X runs more boost then other models, but I am not sure exactly how much.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414859-m35-stagea-series-1-questions/
Share on other sites

I am looking at joining the M35 family fairly soon, but I am having trouble find afew key details that will help me buy the right one.

My main questions is, without jacking up every car I look at or laying black lines on the pavement, how do I tell it has the LSD option?

So far I know that:

250T RS Four had the option of LSD

250T RX Four didn't have the option of LSD

AR-X comes with LSD

Nissan Fast doesn't actually tell you if the car is fitted with the LSD option.

Can I tell by the diff housing? (If so, photos would be great :) )

I've read that the service manual states that the Turbo is a recommended replacement at 100k Service, is this true?

What boost do each model run standard? I know that the AR-X runs more boost then other models, but I am not sure exactly how much.

Cheers

Hi there the ar/x runs 14lb stock and the others run 12lb as for lsd not sure, ar/x has them standard.

Has this been proven Rudi? It's simple to drill out the restrictor in the solenoid line a little to bump the boost. I would prefer the non ARX if that is the case...

Don't get the LSD model either, as you will get wobbly wheels with it (Hicas) Just get the non LSD model and buy a 350z LSD later as the ratios are better...

Has this been proven Rudi? It's simple to drill out the restrictor in the solenoid line a little to bump the boost. I would prefer the non ARX if that is the case...

Don't get the LSD model either, as you will get wobbly wheels with it (Hicas) Just get the non LSD model and buy a 350z LSD later as the ratios are better...

just going by what I have heard , could I put the 350z LSD in mine and do I need to retune etc?

Fast will tell you if the car has been optioned with LSD (or anything else) by clicking on the blue and white OP button up the top of the menu.

When we checked mine; the LSD din't actually appear.

No re-tune required but you would need a matching ratio front diff unless you drop the shaft.

G35x would probably be the cheapest way to do that.

Or if good price from NIssan, PNM35.

When we checked mine; the LSD din't actually appear.

May have been added at a later date?

Ok thanks for your help guys.

What is exactly involved in changing to say a 350Z or G35X LSD?

The turbo at 100k as part of Nissan recommended replacement? Assuming that the exhaust wheel is ceramic like most Nissans, it would seem an ARX models running around the 1bar boost would be more akin to going pop sooner.

Well that depends if you want a whole diff, or just going for the parts and re-using your external. Best option is to get a whole pumpkin, and bolt it in. That being said VLSDs do get a bit long in the tooth, so another option would be to just get a quaife to suit a open diff installed.

The other part is a bit more difficult. The front diff needs a fair bit of disassembly to get to and change. This, as has been said, can be obtained from wither a PNM35 front diff, or a G35x from the US.

Basically look for any options for 350zs and you can use them- just be aware the ratio is different.

Its not a cheap exercise. Another option is to buy a ARX VLSD from YAJ or something, if you want to keep the std diff ratio.

Yes turbo is recommended replaced at 100k. Doubt many of them would have been changed. The main factor with the stock turbo is servicing. If a bit of crud blocks the very small oil feed- its game over. The other thing is the std dump pipe is very restrictive. causing higher heat and wear. They can be pushed quite hard with the oil feed drilled out a little, and a high flow dump pipe installed. I believe they are steel wheeled, not ceramic.

Don't worry about ARX vs RS/X regarding the turbo.

If the turbo hasn't been rebuilt just budget for it to be done sometimes in the next 1-2 years of ownership. If it lives longer, happy days, but don't be upset if it blows up.

Sorry to hijack thread but im looking at 20x8.5 rims. What offset should i look for on 01 m35 rx. +35??

how much low?

somewhere around +high teens to +25. +35 sit too far in. Choose enough tyre to not ruin your ride if your going 20s. And please not bob jane specials....

If the turbo pops/is stuffed, then what are the better options (rebuild/exact same replacement /better alternative replacement?)

What sort of man-hours to remove and replace Turbo?

It is probably twenty hours work to complete, including bleeding the coolant and changing the oil. Unfortunately there is a week or two wait between removing and refitting, as you have to wait for Stao (Hypergear) to complete the rebuild. Craig has had quick turnarounds at Precision turbo's in Sydney but they are $4-500 more expensive.

how much low?

somewhere around +high teens to +25. +35 sit too far in. Choose enough tyre to not ruin your ride if your going 20s. And please not bob jane specials....

22-25 will leave enough roon for a decent not stretched tyre.............................................................................................................................................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...