Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G,day, Ive been using my R33 GTST for superspints and drag racing, problem is my gearbox has stripped the case hardening of the gears, Ive been told that due to launching and prolonged high G high power (380ish killerwasps) loads the oil in the box gets pushed back and has starved the gears of oil thus damaging them, the oil was Hi-tec and changed every 5000k or so and was at the fill point..

Im going to buy a new box from just jap and want to know should I over fill the box a bit, Im also going to put in some Nulon SYN75W90 and Nulon G70 in it as well.

Unfortunatly I do not have the funds for dog boxs or stuff like that, my max cost is around $3000 for the box and oil and other stuff to get it installed.

Any help or info will be much appriciated.

Thanks, Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414977-gearbox-oil-level-question/
Share on other sites

my info is that you are a very lucky man to have had enough motorsport to wear out a gearbox.

let's face it....some stuff wears out. I'm onto my 3rd box in 8 years. The brand new one I bought lasted OK, but rebuilt second handies have been just as good.

take it to award gearbox and diffs, those guys are cheap and actually know their shit with skyline boxes.

BTW no point overfilling the gearbox, it will just froth up and flow out the breather.

my info is that you are a very lucky man to have had enough motorsport to wear out a gearbox.

let's face it....some stuff wears out. I'm onto my 3rd box in 8 years. The brand new one I bought lasted OK, but rebuilt second handies have been just as good.

take it to award gearbox and diffs, those guys are cheap and actually know their shit with skyline boxes.

BTW no point overfilling the gearbox, it will just froth up and flow out the breather.

Thanks Duncan, my problem is to rebuild it would cost almost as much as a brand new item. $2700 for a new one, or $1500 for rebuild but I need new gears which from my nights of googling are around $1000, and second hand boxs of unknown condition are over $1000.

Seems like I need to win Lotto or stop thrashing the car, Ill wait for Lotto I think, thrashing the car is so much fun.

New box 3k

Giken cluster installed 5k

Personally I overfill mine about 700 mills

When on long track sessions ( longer than 20 minutes at a time) any more it spits out any less it comes out as smoke.. Happy median

Thanks mate, also who is this" Barron " with the Nismo diff stuff, and does he install, I want to be not gay and chip on roundabouts.

Mark

Baron was Beer Baron, so named because he used to bring beer to all the SAU meets. Or you could call him Richard. In any case, it's just about adding some extra clutch plates to the diff. Award can help you with that too.

Lots of people may disagree with me...but I reckon you should check out a PAR gear set; they are fine for medium duty track use, heaps of race cars run them in the state champs.

it's not cheap...unfortunately the faster you go the more it costs.

Didn't Richard also have the ability to be the one inside the barriers at the Nismo Festival in Japan taking pictures and talking to people when mere mortals could not get within 100 metres of the place.

I'm getting it rebuilt at Award gearbox and diff, they will replace everything with new and do a internal mod to help with the oil feed to the front, diff might get some shims as well, works out the same price as the new box but get better syncros (series 3 I believe)and the oil mod so I've got to be happy with that.

Mark, I have a box here if you wanted to have a look at it. I wasn't real impressed with friction modifiers in the box and changed to redline and was quiet impressed. Can get it cheap from gllubricants.

Not sure if you could look at modifying the baffles and making them smaller without stopping too much flow back but could be worth a look.

Hasn't redline got something in it that makes it stick to the gears to hep prevent it going dry as yours has...

I remember seeing a photo of a box or a diff that had blown its casing and you could see the oil still stuck thick to the gears..was quite amazing..

Just not 100% if it was redline or another oil..

Mark, I have a box here if you wanted to have a look at it. I wasn't real impressed with in the box and changed to redline and was quiet impressed. Can get it cheap from gllubricants.

Not sure if you could look at modifying the baffles and making them smaller without stopping too much flow back but could be worth a look.

Hasn't redline got something in it that makes it stick to the gears to hep prevent it going dry as yours has...

I remember seeing a photo of a box or a diff that had blown its casing and you could see the oil still stuck thick to the gears..was quite amazing..

Just not 100% if it was redline or another oil..

I"ve heard that Redline has a new formula that foams up or something, I"ve used it before but ATM I"m scared off it.

I actually just put in the last bit of some shockproof I had lying around, about a litre, LOL, the box still sounds like a grinder.

What didn"t you like about the friction modifiers ? they sound good in the advertising, but then everything sounds good in a ad.

I"m quite willing to pay for any oil that has the extra protection benifits.

I"ve heard that Redline has a new formula that foams up or something, I"ve used it before but ATM I"m scared off it.

I actually just put in the last bit of some shockproof I had lying around, about a litre, LOL, the box still sounds like a grinder.

What didn"t you like about the friction modifiers ? they sound good in the advertising, but then everything sounds good in a ad.

I"m quite willing to pay for any oil that has the extra protection benifits.

Mark, I filled my box up with surfs blood just before three nationals. No issues with it spewing its guts up on the track or on the street.

Plus one for award. Terry is a top bloke!!

Mark, I filled my box up with surfs blood just before three nationals. No issues with it spewing its guts up on the track or on the street.

Plus one for award. Terry is a top bloke!!

Sound good then, I might get some engine oil,gearbox oil, diff oil and waterwetter from them and give the whole range a try.

I just need to get the thing fixed ASAP to get the Minister of War and Finances of my back, again......

  • 4 weeks later...

Started getting some crunching 3rd to 4th today :(

I am thinking to late to try shockproof now, not sure I can get any local so would have to order some

Worth trying or am I also now in the market for a Box or a rebuild, how much does a rb26 box take 2.5ish litres yeah?

car was sposed to be getting light track/drag duties again this year

would be nice to get a trouble free year, I heard that was possible :whistling:

Edited by noone

My gearbox was rebuilt and modified by award, the only original part was the case, everything else was new parts, the mod put a plate in at the rear of the box to stop the oil running back there, the plate has a hole to let some oil get there and for its return so the area does see oil.

There was also some pipe work inside to help flow the oil out too the front of the box.

In the end the box took 4 ltrs of Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90 Performance Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Transaxle Oil with 250ml of Nulon G70, Award said this would be a excellent mix.

On a side note my Coppermix clutch was as newish still, finally a bonus.

In the end the box took 4 ltrs of Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90 Performance Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Transaxle Oil with 250ml of Nulon G70, Award said this would be a excellent mix.

Geez okay thats more than i thought so one gallon bottle of Redline light weight Shockproof wouldnt be enough

One Gallon (4 Quarts = 3.784L)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...