Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a R34 GTT and it has a varex exhaust system on it, the kind that is supposed to close a butterfly within the cannon and make the exhaust quiet at the press of a button.

Anyways, i bought it with the exhaust already on the car, and the power for the box controlling the butterfly wasn't connected, so i couldn't test it out.

I connected everything up after buying it and as always, turns out it wasn't connected for a reason, the butterfly in the exhaust doesn't open or close when i use the remote.

Pretty much there is power from the battery going to a small black box which is placed in the boot. from that box another set of wires connect to the cannon end of the exhaust.

I've checked the battery on the remotes and everything and it still doesnt work.

Does anyone have any suggestions on things i should do or check?

Thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415019-varex-exhaust-connection-question/
Share on other sites

Might be a bit of a pain but can you put battery power directly on the motor for the butterfly. That will tell you for sure if its dead

X-force are pretty good to deal with and should help you out with replacement parts

Varex mufflers... pretty good exhausts. Not something that belongs in the same sentence. They've been reported to be restrictive even when the butterfly has been fully open, not to mention illegal anyway.

thanks callan, should i just take the two wires that go to the motor and connect them directly to the power? how will the butterfly know when to open and when it should close though?

moodles, they aren't illegal, thats what a lot of people believe though. im sure about this as i actually looked into it, and ive gotten this car through a check after getting a defect for noise pollution, and they let me through it with the varex exhaust when it was closed.

thanks callan, should i just take the two wires that go to the motor and connect them directly to the power? how will the butterfly know when to open and when it should close though?

moodles, they aren't illegal, thats what a lot of people believe though. im sure about this as i actually looked into it, and ive gotten this car through a check after getting a defect for noise pollution, and they let me through it with the varex exhaust when it was closed.

Email Varex and ask them for a replacement control box perhaps? It could be the remote too I guess.

Hooking direct power to the motor will fu*k it.

I've seen it done where voltage was applied to the motor to test it. Reverse the polarity makes it go the other way. This may have been done acoss the circuit board so not sure if it was full 12v

They are restrictive closed but not to bad when they are open. The one I saw wouldn't make full boost closed but open it was fine

It wont damage it. I was running mine through a switch in the dash for 6 month with frequent use and never had a single problem. Just hook the power wire power wire to one side and touch the negative on the other. If it moves then its not the motor if it doesnt try swapping the wires around. Still doesnt work it could be the remote or control unit. Does the light come on the remote when a button is pressed?

so do i use the control box at all? or do i cut the wires and just hook up the cannon and motor directly to power without the control box?

and yeah the remote's light comes on and everything

Theres a way to do it by bridging curcuits on the circuit board, but i wouldnt recommend doing this if you dont have the wiring diagram or an understanding of electronics.

There should be a plug that goes to the motor from what I remember, if its a 2 pin plug, you cant go wrong, positive one side, negative the other, reverse polarity will make it spin the other way.

To test the motor you dont need the control box. Just get 2 pieces of wire connect one to the positive of your battery and one to the negative then connect the other ends of the wire to the terminals of the plug coming from the motor. And reverse the wires to go the other way.

I had one fitted to my falcon not too long ago, I just had mine dynod on the weekend.

Valve open: 198.9rwkw

Closed : 138.0rwkw

When open there was no restriction at all compared to my previous straight through muffler. This was with a full 3" system and a very big cam.

They feel very gutless when closed. I would only use it when you really need to be quiet.

ive looked into it a bit more, and i really cant figure out what the problem is, and im a bit hesitant to apply 12v directly to the motor without any resistors or fuses in between, just not willing to risk blowing the motor (if its not already blown)

i called up a shop near by and they said they'll have a look at it and diagnose the problem for free. guess thats worth a go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...