Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Take it back Brandon, but this time, set the rev limit to 2500rpm, so they can move the car around the shop, nothing more.

Yah I am going to have to purchase a Hand Controller or borrow one.

If the paint doesn't match, then you should take the car back,

They are paid to return the car to the original condition.

If they squabble about it, tell them you will contact the insurance company who paid them.

IF they don't do anything, CONTACT that insurance company.

If they refuse to fix it still, take your can to somebody who will fix it and then invoice the insurance company. This happens more than you would think.

PM me for details of somebody who will do it required.

As for the driving of the car, do what your Mum always does, write a letter.

Nothing has ever happened ever in the world without paper work to support it.

Words are just words and cannot be proven.

If nothing happens, then go to one of those websites that publish shoddy workmanship, put them up there, and tell them you will forward the sire to everyone you know until they fix it properly.

I F*UCKING HATE BAD WORKMANSHIP

BASS OUT

Brandon, give the insurnace company a call and tell them your not happy with the service and you want it fixed somewhere else.. also mention the 'joy ride'.

And whats the chance that whoever drove it took it for a nice little quiet cruise. If they are risking their job over it, im sure they would have made the 86km a very fun drive!

NRB - I will keep you guys informed

Bass Junky - Yah Im sending them a Fax stating my dissapointment. You're exactly right it has to be in writing. I'll keep the Fax receipt for my proof.

PM me for details of somebody who will do it required.

Thanks.

dAVE - Yah I was considering this. The issue is the owner of the Panel Beaters is a friend of a friends. I don't believe the owner or his son would of driven my car but most likely one of his workers. I am finding it very hard to burn them if they were not directly involved.

I can feel for you - i've only left my car with people to do things a few times, detailing, alarm stuff, audio etc... i always check my odo before hadning it over and say 'you dont need to drive it anywhere besides in and out of hte shop do you' they always say no... that way i can use that against them if they have... sounds like what you do as well....

86ks is alot, that would be 2 hours of driving, i could get over say 5ks for road testing etc.. but 86ks, i would of gone SKITZ

Dude thats shocking... thats the problem with leaving car's like these at a workshop you are not familiar with. When i had my kit fitted i left it at a place that is known to constantly have cars like this and alot better (not that yours isn't phat, but i'm talken 2-300K Merc's and stuff), as i know the people personally and they are top people, wouldn't touch a car even if they had to, and the fact that they see them day in, day out is good cos they get over them as its nothing new. Their reputation alone is enough to convince me...

But seriously, call the consumer watchdog or whatever they are and spill ya beans they will get into it, and make sure you tell the owner of the shop this too, he will shit bricks. It is actually not legal to drive a car under the supervision of a workshop for anything more than a 'test drive' on parts that were repaied, under suspicion... and 86km's is a lot more than a suspicion. I don't want to bring it up, but in reality, it could have gone for an absolute beating, and you will suffer the consequences in the short future. Personally i think i would have the car checked professionally by a workshop and have a report written and see if there is any mechanical damage, if so take em to court cos then you have a case. More than likely they will get investigated aswell. Its happened before.

i don't think a contract would be a waste of time. Doesn't have to be a manuscript, could probably put all the conditions etc, on 1 A4 page. Just list their conditions, contract (payment for work) is null and void if the following are not adhered too..

>5km.

blah

blah.

I think the point of contracts are to return you to the same position you started at, if something goes wrong. That means anything you've paid etc.

Sorry to hear about the 86km's mate, especially for a gem of a car like yours. I'd be keen to hear of some of the things ppl do to stop this sort of thing happening. ie fuses being pulled as was mentioned earlier.

cheers.

ferni - yah Im not impressed mate. But can't turn back time.

YBSLO4 - The only thing I have on my side is the petrol consumed matches that of just day to day driving. If they pushed it hard it would finished the tank off but they could of filled up some petrol.

Greg - The key has always been proof. The document would give you the proof. If you have proof you can probably take them to court over it.

SS8_Gohan - Thanks for your comments.

Thanks guys. I drafted a document. There is probably some spelling mistakes and I probably missed out on a couple of things.

1st Draft

Looking for feedback.

That's a really good idea.

And the perfect thing to show car places that you are onto them.

Some people at the car places may be offended, but the ones who are are probably the ones who would drive your car!

ok..looks like i'm against the general grain here. I *guess* i woudln't be that happy, but i wouldn't really be jumping up and down about it. In fact, there is very little that can be proved in the end, very difficult to take further if they just deny it.

gordon... i think the QLD sun has melted your brain and now u r left with an even smaller raisin

no way, not possible! :(... we are just more relaxed up here, such small trivialities do not phase us :)

86km is bad, but could be worse - at least nothing happened to it. One sure fire way is to just drop it off with a few Litres petrol in the car, they're never going to get very far if they do take it for a fang.

What :bs!: , here's a similar story for ya, I had an ex-interceptor VL turbo manual a few years back (till I turned it into a banana :D). Took it to a "reputable" franchise mechanic and left it for the day. Came back and it had 38km on the clock, I questioned them but they wouldnt admit to it! 4 weeks later I get a letter from the Mobile Tax Department aka Police who tell me I've lost my license for doing 128 in a 60 zone and need to appear in court.... WHAT THE!!! I says, I may hoon around from time to time but never that fast in a residential area.

Anyways there I am trying to understand wats happened when I remeber the service, I checked the invoice a you guessed it, the fine was from the day the meachics had the car.

Bottom line, the guy lost his job, license and had to go to court.

JUSTICE!! :D

Bepo

One sure fire way is to just drop it off with a few Litres petrol in the car, they're never going to get very far if they do take it for a fang.

I wouldnt do that!! I am always paranoid that they would fill up with normal ULP and not ultimate etc... theres a quick way to have the car ****ed.

Bepo - Great! I am glad you were able to catch them.

I spoke to the Owner's Son and he sends his deepest apologies and agrees that a document recording the speedometer is acceptable but he assures me the keys will not be left in a common area but locked in a safe place. He has also offered me some complimentary work which I turned down.

the beauty of the Apexi Power FC... all I do now is, go to my settings>rev/idle>revlimit and bring the biyatch right down to 3000-3500rpm, just enough to drive it, without hitting boost. Then I rip the HC out and take it with me. The funniest thing is getting a call from whoevers got the car, and they feel all guilty and bad, and tell you "for some reason your cars not revving over XXXrpm, etc etc???" Keeps them honest.

Mesh - Yup mate that sounds like a top solution!!

Had a quick thought, how easy is it to change these settings your talking about? If it was real easy, whats stopping you setting it to 1000rpm LOL. That way its like another theft device? I'd like to see a thief/joyrider drive it away getting over 1000rpm :wassup:

Just a thought anyways?

Bepo the somewhat devious clown :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...