Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

with ignition issues fixed you will easily dip into the 10's and 135mph

good first effort though

yeah thanks mate.

the ignition issue was easily fixed up.

Planning on going back to track and lower tyre pressures etc....

but first I have to fix this

IMG_2265_zpsbd879ab3.jpg

Attesa system has given up the ghost - error code 21 throttle sensor is le f**ked

who does work like that

what ever happened to taking pride in your work

backyard butchers

lol I don't know man.

I need to test the voltage of the attessa ecu as per the service manual.

but my voltage meter has grown legs and got the f**k out - cant find the bastard lol

id be re doing the harness.

solder my man. get that iron out. i cannot stand wiring like that even if i cant see it.

think you are right Paul

Also think that a new harness is going to have to be on order

Burn more money burn :rant:

I'd try source a new male plug w/ pins from Haltech or wherever. Cut it back and start again. Poor connections raise resistance, altering sensor readings from true. If you didn't want to solder, maybe source some weatherproof connectors like deutsch. We use them at work and installed correctly, can outlive the life of the machine in some pretty harsh environments. We prefer if possible to plug/receptacle as solder joins can become brittle and hard over time, and if there is any vibration can crack.

Edited by sleptema

I prefer having an entire new harness.

However, I have just done a some quick research and found this from Haltech

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10700

the very last post got my attention

The attessa error code is still 29 even after this new tps has been installed

IMG_2269_zpse7221d43.jpg

I wonder if something has reset itself

Got to love people butchering up the harnesses like that. Mine was the same as yours so when I switched from PowerFC to the Link I replaced the harness for peace of mind - was good that I did as I also found that the front left wheel sensor plug had melted and become disconnected :/

Do you remember changing / touching anything for the light to come on or did it just appear one day?

Got to love people butchering up the harnesses like that. Mine was the same as yours so when I switched from PowerFC to the Link I replaced the harness for peace of mind - was good that I did as I also found that the front left wheel sensor plug had melted and become disconnected :/

Do you remember changing / touching anything for the light to come on or did it just appear one day?

all I did man was remove the oil catch can from the engine bay and give it a good clean out

there was a ground wire that I thought was in the way so I started to unscrew it (sits directly below where the oil catch can sits behind / next to the battery hook) but I couldn't take it off so I just tried to tighten again (but still seemed a bit loose, wonder if there is nut underneath)

after I had cleaned the oil catch can I reinstalled with the breathers attached and went for drive

got to the traffic lights at the end of my street (600-700m or so) and before I could even cross the 4WD light came on.

Here is a quick video of the Attessa ECU flashing its goods

http://vid1289.photobucket.com/albums/b503/antzpantzgtr/IMG_2287_zps8bae56c5.mp4

I count 21 am I right?

Make sure your battery and earths are good..

That's given me heaps of troubles before with my attessa

Yeah. I will check it over.

Could be so many possibilities.

What an absolute PITA.

But I guess it gives me the chance to find electrical issues that need to be resolved so probably a good thing.

Phewww.........So I fixed my 4WD issue :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

It was what GTR_JOEY said and was a loose / dirty ground wire which also grounded the battery wire in front of that silly catch can.

I gave it a good clean and replaced the screw with a new one as the old one was totally stripped of its thread (not sure how :dry: )

then couldnt help myself and take the car for a spin - all four wheels blazing like they should be.

Thanks Joe again for the tip.

and to all that get 4WD errors - CHECK YOUR EARTHS!

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...