Professional Engine Flush Advice

[luthepa1]

Hey guys,

Well Craig (Jetwreck) replaced my "FUBAR" turbo today as well as fitting the new dump pipe that Scotty made up. Very happy with the work performed and Craig is a legend! No f**king around and does the job proper!

However there is still a little concern still lingering with a tapping noise that started up top of engine. The oil that was drained was black as hell and royally f**ked. It should not be like this as my car cant have travelled more than 2,500km since last service and I provided the mechanic royal purple (5000km since last year tax return). Highly suspect that mechanic took it for himself and bent me over. Also other evidence was the oil feed banjo to turbo was blocked.

After speaking with craig he is wondering if there is poor oil circulation feed to top end and any of the other many oil sprayers in the lower end. Thinking that the engine is so clogged up and full of shit it need a good flushing. Hoping the engine has not had it.

So... any recommendations for proper, thorough engine flushes? Going to try and get another 500km on it keeping off boost to try and force some oil around and then go for a professional flush.

What would people recommend and/or advise?

Paul.

Edited December 22, 2012 by luthepa1

[GTR260]

I have heard of ppl using Diesel to flush engines, drain sump, fill with diesel, start snd idle for 10 sec shit down & repeat for s few times,

Not shure if it's what I would do, but some ppl obviously have

Edited December 22, 2012 by GTR260

[The Bogan]

If you run some diesel engine oil in it for a while the extra detergents in will clean the engine a bit, try running some for a couple of hundred K's then swapping it out for some regular oil and replace the filter.

Does the car have hydrolic lifters? they might be gummed up and the diesel engine oil may fix the problem.

[joshm35]

Only in a rb. Motul has a decient flush. If you want a propper job pull engine apart and use acid wash. With your turbo do you have engine management like greddy ultimate or stock?

[The Bogan]

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Engine_Treatments/Engine_Oil_Flush/

Or use this.

[Sinista32]

I've used an engine oil flush but not for a turbo'd car.

Worked a Treat. 15 to 20 mins on idle only.

Replace filter and oil - all good. Clean as a whistle

[StevenCJR31]

I have heard of ppl using Diesel to flush engines, drain sump, fill with diesel, start snd idle for 10 sec shit down & repeat for s few times,

Not shure if it's what I would do, but some ppl obviously have

This works very well, ive done it many times and it will suprise you how much shite comes out with the diesel

[luthepa1]

Only in a rb. Motul has a decient flush. If you want a propper job pull engine apart and use acid wash. With your turbo do you have engine management like greddy ultimate or stock?

Just stock ECU. Only upgrades now are HDi FMIC, Sierra Stage 1 Turbo with actuator, Dump pipe.

I just reset the ECU (I think) and it seems to idle much better now and not rough. Also the tappy noise seems to quietened a little although still there. Starting to think my has just been like this for a while never noticed coz not usually sticking my head in the engine bay to listen.

[180Shauny]

Interesting to see the posts above, is it Diesel or Diesel engine oil you should use? Or is it either?

[The Bogan]

I've used diesel engine oil before to clean out high K motors with good results, the extra detergents in the oil work well, do a couple of hundred K,s then dump the oil hot..

Though in this day and age the engine oil flush like the Nulon stuff will most likely work much better.

[PN-Mad]

Just sounds like a lifter clogged up a bit.

First off, take your oil filler cap off, and have a look with a torch down there. Tell us what you see? Silver, tarnished bronze/ gold colour, or black and full of shit?

If its really bad, the last thing you want to do is dislodge all that and send it towards your new turbo.

[Duncan]

I would certainly start with a commecial engine flush product.

But having said that, I have cleaned old motors out with diesel (fuel) before. Just not to any car I liked.

[joshm35]

Just sounds like a lifter clogged up a bit.

First off, take your oil filler cap off, and have a look with a torch down there. Tell us what you see? Silver, tarnished bronze/ gold colour, or black and full of shit?

If its really bad, the last thing you want to do is dislodge all that and send it towards your new turbo.

yeah when I replaced my turbo side cam gasket I noticed all the thick black coatings on cam bearing clamps. I ended up leaving it for this reason. acid bath time.

[HER_M35]

I would certainly start with a commecial engine flush product.

But having said that, I have cleaned old motors out with diesel (fuel) before. Just not to any car I liked.

As Duncan said, start with a commercial option before going all hardcore on the engine.

I will usually use the Liqui-Molly Detox on any car i buy with the initial service, works a treat for me and then i use the standard flush at each service from there on but everyone has their own views on engine flushing;

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Liqui-Moly-Engine-Detox-Treatment-500mL.aspx?pid=156705#Description

If this doesn't work and you need anything more serious, you can move up the scale gradually but i'd leave diesel for the less advanced tractor engines.....

Jas

[luthepa1]

Thanks for the feedback guys. So I am thinking that I will start with commercial engine flush product before going full on with diesel. That said when and how should I use it? I never used such stuff before. Plus engine just had fresh Neo oil put in it yesterday so be a shame to ruin $120+ oil although I'd rather that than a crazy repair bill.

I was just reading on the Liqui-Molly Detox and got the impression I could put in any time as its an additive that does not change the DNA of the motor oil. Or shoul dI do a couple 100 K's then put the flush in and do another couple 100 K's?

[WAGON_BOY]

Nulon engine oil flush gets dropped in the oil just before you drop it........... you do not drive with it in the motor

15 to 20 mins on idle only

Then replace oil and filter

[The Bogan]

Engine Oil Flush

Nulon Engine Oil Flush (EOF) is formulated to dissolve and dislodge/remove harmful sludge, dirt, varnish and other contaminants that accumulate within an engine's lubrication system between oil change intervals.

Although modern engines are cleaner from an environmental aspect, all the pollutants of engine combustion previously released into the atmosphere are now recirculated within the engine. Consequently, lubricating oils have a much more difficult task in cleaning and suspending all these additional contaminants.

When added to the crankcase oil prior to each oil and filter change, Nulon Engine Oil Flush greatly assists in ridding the engine of potentially damaging contaminants. Nulon Engine Oil Flush also helps to free sticky valves and hydraulic lifters. Thermal efficiency of the engine is also improved by ridding the engine of insulating sludge build-up. EOF provides a cleaner environment for fresh oil to operate, so the detergent dispersant and antioxidant additives in the new oil are not depleted as quickly.

Benefits:

■ Extends engine life

■ Helps free up sticky valve lifters

■ Keeps oil strainer & pick-up clean

■ Cleans & removes sludge, dirt & varnish

■ Provides a cleaner environment for new oil

■ Keeps new oil cleaner for longer

Features:

■ Nulon Engine Oil Flush is extremely simple to use and improves the environment in which lubricating oil operates.

■ EOF is suitable for use with all synthetic and mineral oils

■ Suitable for petrol, diesel, LPG, old or new engines

■ Safe to use in older engines

■ Compatible with seals and all engine components

Directions for Use:

Prior to oil change, add to engine crankcase oil (up to 6 litres) and run the engine at idle for 10 -15 minutes. Stop the engine and drain/flush out the oil while warm. Install new oil and filter. Use EOF with each oil change to prevent sludge build up.

Caution:

To prevent possible engine damage, heavily sludged engines require professional removal and cleaning of oil sump, pick-up and rocker cover.

Application Rates:

Add one 300 ml bottle of Nulon EOF for every 6 litres or part thereof of engine oil.

[pipster11]

go to supercheap and buy 4 litres of the cheapest possible oil and 2 bottles of nulon flush

drop your good oil and keep it safe

put in the cheap oil with both bottles of flush

run for 20 mins at idle, raising it 2000 rpm for 20-30 secs every 5 mins

Drop hot

Put your good oil back in

[Daleo]

Hey guys,

Well Craig (Jetwreck) replaced my "FUBAR" turbo today as well as fitting the new dump pipe that Scotty made up. Very happy with the work performed and Craig is a legend! No f**king around and does the job proper!

However there is still a little concern still lingering with a tapping noise that started up top of engine. The oil that was drained was black as hell and royally f**ked. It should not be like this as my car cant have travelled more than 2,500km since last service and I provided the mechanic royal purple (5000km since last year tax return). Highly suspect that mechanic took it for himself and bent me over. Also other evidence was the oil feed banjo to turbo was blocked.

After speaking with craig he is wondering if there is poor oil circulation feed to top end and any of the other many oil sprayers in the lower end. Thinking that the engine is so clogged up and full of shit it need a good flushing. Hoping the engine has not had it.

So... any recommendations for proper, thorough engine flushes? Going to try and get another 500km on it keeping off boost to try and force some oil around and then go for a professional flush.

What would people recommend and/or advise?

Paul.

With all the talk of sludge; I'd be trying a couple of very short change intervals in the next week or so, say 3-400km, with some basic 10/40w oil, then whip off a rocker cover to see just how bad it is.

If the heads are heavily varnished or sludgey; they are the barometer for the rest of the engine. They cop all of the heat cycling, so if they are bad; you know what the rest looks like.

Ideally there should be a light brown coating on the alloy of the head casting, but when you wipe it; it should clean down to the alloy. if it is gummy or black with gooey residue or even flakey bits; I wouldn't NOT use an oil system flush straight up.

I would be really hesitant about using a flush on a heavily contaminated engine; you run the risk of dislodging large deposits, and potentially blocking a piston cooling jet or even the turbo feed.

I think engine sludge is a bit like cholesterol, take your time to gradually break it down with very short change intervals, then start using very good quality oil, and obviously ensure that what you are buying is actually going in YOUR engine.

It's pretty morally destitute of your mechanic to pinch your oil for his own use; and frankly, I'd be going elsewhere.

[pipster11]

You can reuse that mix too for flushing other motors

i've used that on my 31 and my stepdad's commodore with great success

Both are running well to his day

and the 31 which is renowned for noisy lifters has been pretty quiet since