Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Modify R33 Gtr Airbox To Get More Air :)


Daz
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have heard that there are ways to modify the standard GTR airbox's to get more air into them.

I want to keep the factory look, has anyone done something? Has it worked? how have you done it?

Thanks

D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have the attachment that connects the box from the RHS into the guard?

If its the same as the 34 GTR, there will be a cover on the inner guard side of this attachment. You can take this cover off to increase air intake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power level is 422rwks, on 19psi.

Just changed to bigger twins and want to chase 450+ rwks

Why does that matter??? I just want to know how to modify the thing

So you're making 422RWkw with a completely stock airbox? - Good to know!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Yep removed that already, anything else I can do? :)

Hmm I might be able to cut out a much bigger hole and a custom larger pipe into the guard :)

I found that the stock airbox was becoming limiting around 500rwks so I need to custom make something however still need to retain the standard appearance :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whats your current power level and mod list?

Power level is 422rwks, on 19psi.

Just changed to bigger twins and want to chase 450+ rwks

Why does that matter??? I just want to know how to modify the thing

It may matter to you that Piggaz car has made a genuine 470rwkw with a standard box and NO modifications. So he MAY have saved you some time and energy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine side of the gearbox you can modify that to accept a filter then modify the snorkle to feed air over it. It ain't a 5 minute mod though. I don't know the part number for the filter. Haven't gotten that far.

Also tickle the alloy pipes that bolt to the comp housings. I've sent you those pics before I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...