Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Modify R33 Gtr Airbox To Get More Air :)

Daz

By Daz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PAV34 Mentor

PAV34

Posted
Posted

Do you have the attachment that connects the box from the RHS into the guard?

If its the same as the 34 GTR, there will be a cover on the inner guard side of this attachment. You can take this cover off to increase air intake.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Power level is 422rwks, on 19psi.

Just changed to bigger twins and want to chase 450+ rwks

Why does that matter??? I just want to know how to modify the thing

So you're making 422RWkw with a completely stock airbox? - Good to know!
  • 1 year later...
Daz Grand Master

Daz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep removed that already, anything else I can do? :)

Hmm I might be able to cut out a much bigger hole and a custom larger pipe into the guard :)

I found that the stock airbox was becoming limiting around 500rwks so I need to custom make something however still need to retain the standard appearance :)

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

Whats your current power level and mod list?

Power level is 422rwks, on 19psi.

Just changed to bigger twins and want to chase 450+ rwks

Why does that matter??? I just want to know how to modify the thing

It may matter to you that Piggaz car has made a genuine 470rwkw with a standard box and NO modifications. So he MAY have saved you some time and energy
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Trent's dyno isn't accurate, because it isn't in NSW. :P

Daz at this power level you won't get much help from these guys, how many have cracked 500 let alone on the stock airbox, piping and cooler?

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

The engine side of the gearbox you can modify that to accept a filter then modify the snorkle to feed air over it. It ain't a 5 minute mod though. I don't know the part number for the filter. Haven't gotten that far.

Also tickle the alloy pipes that bolt to the comp housings. I've sent you those pics before I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...