Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That front splitter interpretation did my head in, I emailed and spoke to Ian regarding this, and the response was basically what the rule says it is. So I was still confused as this wasn't an answer, so I emailed Scott beeton as he helped write the rules and this was his response back 27th April, 1.5 version rules.

I've shot an email through to Ian outlining your concerns.

As far as the front splitter length is concerned, I've asked for clarification, but it says that the profile must follow the outline of the front bar, but may extend 150mm longitudinally forward, so this allows for ONLY 150mm forward at any given point in the direction of travel of the vehicle. Where you get to the point that the vehicle front ends, ie, the side of the car, I would imagine that you cannot then go any further forward as you go out to the side.

Anyway, I'll chat with Ian and see if I can put together a document to clarify all of this.

Best regards,

Scott Beeton

Short story, its still open to interpretation so I reckon this year either way will be allowed, just in case we only went forward only.

John I reckon you will be ecstatic when the time comes.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yokohama are hosting a couple of pre-wtac track days.

- fastest car on the day gets their entry refunded

- they are going to have AD08R's on hand for testing

- more trophies

Winton

http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/45

Wakefield

http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/46

Hey dan not worried, I was thinking about buying one as a track car already complete, if these guys can get them down to 1050ish on 350 reliable kw then that would be fantastic, 450 is another level, I had a 2000 model wrx and loved it, but was only a street car. Love the gtr and I wouldn't sell it ever, but if you guys had a choice knowing what you know now what car would you get for a circuit car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...