Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Recently after taking my R33 to a garage that I was told would "look after me" in the way of a road worthy, I have come home with a list as long the longest thing you could think of, but longer.. Of things they say need to be fixed.

Some of it is absolutely ridiculous! They even included two month old windscreen wipers, it hasn't been driven in the rain in the past two months, I literally do not understand how they could've added them to the already long, long, long list.

So, as it stands, I'm trying to find a "friendly" garage that can help me out. Somewhere that actually knows what a skyline is & doesn't deal with your everyday p-plater & their 'fully sick' lowered commie.

Having said that, the car is actually in really good nic, it runs perfectly, is always maintained & the only reason I thought it may not pass is for a small crack in my front right headlight, WHICH THEY DIDN'T SAY ANYTHING ABOUT.

Can anyone help me? I'll shout you a beer! Maybe even two.

Thanks,

Alex.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418472-friendly-rwc-in-melbourne/
Share on other sites

You won't find much in the way of "friendly" rwc places usually these days, way to much of a chance they will lose there licences if they are caught out passing over things

They all need to supply photo's etc now as well so they just go by the books

Best bet is to try a different place and see what happens

I'll get the full list up tomorrow when I grab the paperwork from my car, but my so called "racing" pedals were on there.

Yeah I'm going to get around to all the easy things to fix, then go from there.

Yes I am the buying, trying to transfer rego into my name.

Nah don't really have a regular mechanic, however my uncle is a truckie & thinks he knows some people they may be able to help out.

Haha nah it wasn't there, I'm from 3156

just having a quick browse through the roadworthy requirements,

the only thing about pedals it says is under Driving Controls in Section K

"All driving control pedals must have an effective non-slip surface or be covered in non slip material...steering wheel rims, knobs and other devices, which have deteriorated to an extent that they are hazardous, are unacceptable"

Have your pedals worn smooth or are aftermarket aluminium ones or something?

I'll get the full list up tomorrow when I grab the paperwork from my car, but my so called "racing" pedals were on there.

If the pedals are non-factory, and are alloy without any rubber/non slip pads - then the RWC is 100% within his rights to fail you for it.

If people spent more time knowing what the laws actually are, they would actually be surprised how right some RWC people are on a lot of things. Whilst they might be small in your eyes, it's his license at stake.

Obviously there are some guys who just make stuff up, but in the new day/age where it's photo's required etc, it's a lot harder now for things to be "overlooked". A few people have even stopped doing RWC's unless people pay $300+ as it's such a waste of time for them now.

Bullshit or not - That's the law, so one must work within it. They are plenty of little loopholes, you just need to do some homework and you can get away with quite a bit.

The pedal thing actually makes good sense as I did have metal only ones years back. Get into the car with a wet shoe/rainy day, foot would certainly slip around for 10mins until the sole & pedal dried. So there is purpose to the law/requirement that has to account for the lowest common denominator.

Bullshit or not - That's the law, so one must work within it. They are plenty of little loopholes, you just need to do some homework and you can get away with quite a bit.

The pedal thing actually makes good sense as I did have metal only ones years back. Get into the car with a wet shoe/rainy day, foot would certainly slip around for 10mins until the sole & pedal dried. So there is purpose to the law/requirement that has to account for the lowest common denominator.

no totally agree with you.

however, how is it different to driving in thongs/high heels?

in the motherland its illegal to drive with out shoes!

anyway getting off topic. call a few "back street" joints mate. normally more lenient than the bigger guys.

no totally agree with you.

however, how is it different to driving in thongs/high heels?

in the motherland its illegal to drive with out shoes!

anyway getting off topic. call a few "back street" joints mate. normally more lenient than the bigger guys.

I'm pretty sure it's illegal to drive with slippers and stilletto's

no totally agree with you.

however, how is it different to driving in thongs/high heels?

in the motherland its illegal to drive with out shoes!

anyway getting off topic. call a few "back street" joints mate. normally more lenient than the bigger guys.

Yeah totally agree, it's very stupid - but - there is always those few, and that's the point of most safety type laws, stupid to most people with common sense.

I always take my thongs off and tuck them in under the seat etc. I'm sure there are plenty of others drive with them on and have had them stuck under pedals at one point ... Shat themselves and thought "I wont do it again"... but next week they are. Just how it goes.

They're momo pedals & yes whilst they do have alloy on them, they are not worn down & the rubber on them is still very grippy. I didn't purchase them, they were already on the car, personally I would have kept the originals, but each to their own I guess.

But like I said, I got told I needed new wipers that were only 2 months old, I'd only used them once washing my windows.

Anywho, I'm fixing it up & taking it back there this week. Can anyone help me out with some original pedals or headlights?

So you keep bringing up the wiper blades - but won't list anything else?

And now you've mentioned headlights as a problem too?

Me thinks there was a few more legit things wrong - So no wonder the RWC guys is going hard :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...