Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's your recommendation to someone who lives in Melbourne? Really?

I am assuming the stock one is still there, I have seen many skylines with the stock charcoal canister looped into the aftermarket charcoal canister.

I was suggesting to remove that fugly compliance one and only run the stock one.

That massive one in the top pic, I've seen a few R33 with that looped back into the stock one. Mine was the same, took it off and just used the stock R33 OEM one.

The stock one sits bolt next to the LHS passenger headlight, has a small u shaped hose which connects to the fuel tank. THe other 2 goes to the plenum.

I didn't even open his pictures. I just assumed it was a shot of the factory location (glancing at the thumbnails). When did they start fitting those to incoming cars? As I said, I've never seen one, and I've been under the bonnets of hundreds of Skylines over the years.

Theres 2 Vac lines going nowhere in the second photo that look the right length? usually there are labels on the top. From memory vent goes to fuel tank vent, purge goes to throttle body (or IC side of plenum) boost feed and the other one goes to a plenum boost/vac feed. Those last 2 might be wrong way round but gives you some idea anyway.

Stock charcol canister is mounted at the front on a bracket with 2 bolts holding it to the crossbrace for the radiator (Top)

Edited by 89CAL

I didn't even open his pictures. I just assumed it was a shot of the factory location (glancing at the thumbnails). When did they start fitting those to incoming cars? As I said, I've never seen one, and I've been under the bonnets of hundreds of Skylines over the years.

No idea, but every so often I see one. Especially fresh ones at dealers, I believe most people just rip them out, bin them and use the stock one.

No idea, but every so often I see one. Especially fresh ones at dealers, I believe most people just rip them out, bin them and use the stock one.

Yep, mine had one. Was a sooper shonky job too. Was the first thing I ripped out. Who needs two charcoal canisters?

So I can rip out the one in the pic ( I.e the big black fugly one with the 3 hoses)Also i can't find the OEM canister at the front that u guys are talking about, could someone post up a pic of it and how to re direct all of the hoses into the that one so I can remove this black piece of shit!

Cheers guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...