Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys..

Pretty new to all of this audio gear in cars, so wanted some advice from you professionals :D

I have a 4 channel Pioneer amp in the boot of my car. It hasn't been attached to anything so it's just sitting free on the floor of my boot. Now as you can probably understand, I tend to enjoy at the odd time doing a bit of drifting (only in safe and controlled circumstances, of course!!! :P) and when you have an amp in the back not attached it tends to go travelling at rapid rates in the boot... Oops!

So with that in mind, I would like to know some recommended places to mount an amp in the rear of a R33 GTS-T.

I asked an audio company to mount it for me whilst they fixed part of my stereo, but all they did was screw it into the plywood cover for the spare wheel, so that didn't do much before the screws came out..

So... what have you done in the past and what have you learnt from any mistakes in mounting amps in a safe and concealed location?

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Giles

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41973-amp-mounting-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd probably get your old crappy piece of thin board out that passes as the floor (which warps when wet), buy a bit of good MDF, trace it out cut it with the jigsaw and get yourself a nice solid floor - $15 maybe. Then can just bolt it there now worries.

The other option is to build the same for the vertical battery partition thingo - that is another common mount point. Again, get some nice MDF, cut to shape, and maybe carpet it(bunnings has cheap and reasonable carpet by the metre, grey or black). Then mount your amp vertically.

Otherwise if you want to get fancy with perspex, etc you can probably either DIY with a bit of work and knowhow, otherwise call in an expert.

Thanks man.. that's exaclty the sort of suggestion i was after.

I was contemplating mounting the amp behind the scenes. That is in the backing that hides the battery, over to the right side of the boot behind that backing there seems to be a nice bit of space there that would fit an amp. The idea would be to somehow fit it there.. would involve screwing a couple of holes and bolting it down, but that way the amp would be out of sight..

is this a non-recommended practice?

I'd probably get your old crappy piece of thin board out that passes as the floor (which warps when wet), buy a bit of good MDF, trace it out cut it with the jigsaw and get yourself a nice solid floor - $15 maybe. Then can just bolt it there now worries.

The other option is to build the same for the vertical battery partition thingo - that is another common mount point. Again, get some nice MDF, cut to shape, and maybe carpet it(bunnings has cheap and reasonable carpet by the metre, grey or black). Then mount your amp vertically.  

Otherwise if you want to get fancy with perspex, etc you can probably either DIY with a bit of work and knowhow, otherwise call in an expert.

We've mounted quite a few smaller amplifiers under the floor next to the spare tire but you might have to make a new floor like the fella's have suggested. :P

You could probably mount it next to the battery under the shelf to but it's not a good idea to place the amp that close to the battery. :D

myr332:

I have two amps mounted exactly where you are thinking of putting yours (right hand side of battery, behind the scenes). It's a good spot, seems made for it if you ask me.

But i don't recommend screwing it down. I have a custom made box with one sitting on top of the other (nothing fancy). It is held down with velcro and I have it wedged in there with some foam to minimise lateral movement while going sideways :wassup:.

the side walls and floor are perfect spots.. you can kinda see them in my avatar

<<<<<<

but if you want a picture just ask

hey man... Yeah that would be brilliant if you could send me a picture. in fact a picture would really describe what everyone has been offering me, so if any of you guys (especially the bloke who mounted the amp next to the battery) have pictures of their installs, upload them!!!

thanks!!

Giles

Myr332, I've got 2 amps in my R33, one of which is sitting to the right of the battery, on top of the fuel pump. In the 2nd pic that fhrx posted, what I did is mount my amp to a small piece of mdf, then using wingnuts and washers, mount the mdf onto the bottom of the metal bracket (that holds the battery and whatnot). All I did then is put some soft foam underneath for extra support, not that you really need it.

The pic attached shows where the 2nd amp went.

  • 4 weeks later...

I mounted both of my amps on the sides of the sub box (one on each side) - with an 85 litre box, there's plenty of mounting space :D See attachment... this thing used to put out some sound for a single sub setup.

Now that I've pulled the subbie out, I just have the remaining amp screwed to the stock floor - and it's been like that for 6+ months. It's been through a full skidpan day like that, and some 'spirited' driving, and it hasn't moved a millimetre.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...