Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

So... Looks like this will be up and running soon. Booked in for tune on Wednesday (11th).

Spec list as follows, will be interesting to see what it produces.

1994 S1 R33

~165,000 kms, unopened engine

Nistune ECU

GTX3067 w/ 0.82 A/R Garrett internal gate housing

Stock manifolds

Pod filter - Alloy pipe intake

Z32 AFM

Blitz return flow FMIC

Greddy Profec OLED boost controller

Nismo 740cc injectors

Walbro 465 pump

3" Custom stainless exhaust.

Hopefully all the required supporting mods are there to let this turbo do its stuff. Shame I didn't end up getting the 0.63 A/R housing as first thought, but now interested to see what it will do with the 0.82.

So... Looks like this will be up and running soon. Booked in for tune on Wednesday (11th).

Spec list as follows, will be interesting to see what it produces.

  • 1994 S1 R33
  • ~165,000 kms, unopened engine
  • Nistune ECU
  • GTX3067 w/ 0.82 A/R Garrett internal gate housing
  • Stock manifolds
  • Pod filter - Alloy pipe intake
  • Z32 AFM
  • Blitz return flow FMIC
  • Greddy Profec OLED boost controller
  • Nismo 740cc injectors
  • Walbro 465 pump
  • 3" Custom stainless exhaust.

Hopefully all the required supporting mods are there to let this turbo do its stuff. Shame I didn't end up getting the 0.63 A/R housing as first thought, but now interested to see what it will do with the 0.82.

Indeed - me too, it's quite a different setup to really anything else done on here and it may provide an interesting result. I have reservations about the 0.82a/r housing but there are ways it will potentially help it, too.

EDIT: Seems to be a time limit on when I can edit my posts...

For me it will be interesting to see how this compares with previous results of GT3071 with same turbine housing. It seems like GTX turbos flow about the same as next size up GTs, so GT3071 power with bit better response would be nice.

Trying not to get my hopes up too much.

Edited by M@&k

Yeah, don't get too ahead of yourself - though for what it's worth I think the expectations seem pretty realistic. I suspect it should have some hilariously usable power :) Look forward to hearing driving impressions of it when you get it back! Look forward to hear (hopefully) how it goes tomorrow

I have seen one review of a GTX3067R replacing a GT3071R in 0.63 housings and it spooled slightly earlier than the GT3071R .

To be fair these turbos use different compressor housings , T04E 0.50 AR for the 71R and T04B 0.60 AR and port shrouded for the X67R .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Thats a bummer Mark looking forward to seeing your results :(

My guess is you will see around 250-260kw if your setup has a good exhaust and intake system.

Good luck & looking forward to your driving impressions :)

I think you should of gone the 3071 if you wanted more mate ;)

My car was well sorted and I only went 288kw knocked back to 278kw on around 23psi on quite a low reading dyno with the 3071 and you have 4mm less of compressor so dont know what that will equate to.. Apart from ALOT of fun as I think its gunna be all in around 3500 :)

Edited by Mick_o

You haven't really given much of an impression of how free flowing your exhaust is etc, so I'm going to be different - go out on a limb here and say just over 270rwkw is possible if all goes well - and if boost control isn't lazy and depending on dyno run rate, 1bar in the low 3000rpm range.

Again, all depends on quality of tune and parts, how well the dyno is set up, and how good my crystal ball is haha.

Mick_O's prediction is probably a realistic expectation to set, however - I wouldn't aim higher, I'm just being devil's advocate as I think >270kw is in the realms of possibility.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...