Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i am running the ID1000s with the resistor pack removed, 1000cc is enough for me with -9's.

you dont have to run ID1000s you just need to remove your current setup and test it with a stock setup to see if this is the issue or not.

what turbo are you using to need more then 1000cc ???? even with e85 that is quite a bit of power.

He is running Bosch ev14's 2000cc (xspurt) injectors, brand new. I doubt there is an issue with them, and I though Jez already tried another set of injectors? While I agree the 2000's are not as reliable as the 1000's due to being natural gas injectors there are plenty of people using them without issue, and Portaz is still running 98 so e85 can't be blamed...

Out of interest, which version firmware were you running in the select ECU with the misfire problem? With the Nissan trigger there was a problem above ~6000rpm between versions 10.105 and 10.126 which has been remedied in 10.0127. If your version was outside of that range then it must have been something else.

its not because its wasted spark. even the plug in vipec / link is using wasted spark and people are running massive power on those, ive seen waste spark pushing over 1500hp with no issues on really dirty engines

+1 agree it's not because you were running wasted spark, especially on Nissan coils which only need 1.8ms of dwell time. If you do that maths at 1.8ms dwell a wasted spark setup could support up to around 12,000rpm. Interested to hear if it was a FW issue, The e1280s will give you full sequential fuel delivery, end of injection timing and whatever fuel/ign calcs your tuner might want to dream up if he's competent with the advanced view interface though.

I should clarify , same tuner same dyno different style of ecu, I must say I thought jez may give up as he flys out on hols soon but he is about as stubborn as me and it seems Andy is too really thanks guys even though we havnt completed e 85 tune I'm really stocked and adjusting dwell made no difference, well what ever it is that's the cause the nistune didn't suffer same issue not sure on firmware though I'm sure the boys looked at it

I did suggest injector timing as in 360 or 720 (not sure exactly ) but on select its not adjustable in the 1280 it is but what's strange is there was 2 cars there running same ecu injector setup with no issues so its a but of a mystery till Wednesday , I've researched that when the Japanese change engines in r 32 they always put a new engine loom in if that's true maybe there's a reason for it I guess

Either way it sounds like you're on top of it, from an engineering perspective it would have been nice to identify the issue before blanket fixing it with another ECU. Injection timing adjustment is available on v10.127 now by the way but it's only injector phasing (so the adjustment is in 120 degree steps on a 6 cyl), not injection end angle adjustment as is the case the with the 1280.

so he has other cars there with the same ecu and same injectors but there are no issues ???

ooooo i love head f**ks like this. wish it was me. i would not be changing the ecu i would be trying to find whats causing the problem.

never give up

I'll be buying it in the next week. Been talking to Andy aswell just trying to get my head around the VE tuning and all that.

I've had a play with WARI and am much happier with in in regards to usability over haltech and vipec software.

Because of my limited mods it seems i can use the base ignition and fuel maps. Once i get it i plan to make some changes to the base fuel map using my wideband and the fast tuner.

well the software is very different from all other platforms that i have seen. once you know where everything is its pretty good.

i never use the fast tuner... let us know how you go with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...