Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i am running the ID1000s with the resistor pack removed, 1000cc is enough for me with -9's.

you dont have to run ID1000s you just need to remove your current setup and test it with a stock setup to see if this is the issue or not.

what turbo are you using to need more then 1000cc ???? even with e85 that is quite a bit of power.

He is running Bosch ev14's 2000cc (xspurt) injectors, brand new. I doubt there is an issue with them, and I though Jez already tried another set of injectors? While I agree the 2000's are not as reliable as the 1000's due to being natural gas injectors there are plenty of people using them without issue, and Portaz is still running 98 so e85 can't be blamed...

Out of interest, which version firmware were you running in the select ECU with the misfire problem? With the Nissan trigger there was a problem above ~6000rpm between versions 10.105 and 10.126 which has been remedied in 10.0127. If your version was outside of that range then it must have been something else.

its not because its wasted spark. even the plug in vipec / link is using wasted spark and people are running massive power on those, ive seen waste spark pushing over 1500hp with no issues on really dirty engines

+1 agree it's not because you were running wasted spark, especially on Nissan coils which only need 1.8ms of dwell time. If you do that maths at 1.8ms dwell a wasted spark setup could support up to around 12,000rpm. Interested to hear if it was a FW issue, The e1280s will give you full sequential fuel delivery, end of injection timing and whatever fuel/ign calcs your tuner might want to dream up if he's competent with the advanced view interface though.

I should clarify , same tuner same dyno different style of ecu, I must say I thought jez may give up as he flys out on hols soon but he is about as stubborn as me and it seems Andy is too really thanks guys even though we havnt completed e 85 tune I'm really stocked and adjusting dwell made no difference, well what ever it is that's the cause the nistune didn't suffer same issue not sure on firmware though I'm sure the boys looked at it

I did suggest injector timing as in 360 or 720 (not sure exactly ) but on select its not adjustable in the 1280 it is but what's strange is there was 2 cars there running same ecu injector setup with no issues so its a but of a mystery till Wednesday , I've researched that when the Japanese change engines in r 32 they always put a new engine loom in if that's true maybe there's a reason for it I guess

Either way it sounds like you're on top of it, from an engineering perspective it would have been nice to identify the issue before blanket fixing it with another ECU. Injection timing adjustment is available on v10.127 now by the way but it's only injector phasing (so the adjustment is in 120 degree steps on a 6 cyl), not injection end angle adjustment as is the case the with the 1280.

so he has other cars there with the same ecu and same injectors but there are no issues ???

ooooo i love head f**ks like this. wish it was me. i would not be changing the ecu i would be trying to find whats causing the problem.

never give up

I'll be buying it in the next week. Been talking to Andy aswell just trying to get my head around the VE tuning and all that.

I've had a play with WARI and am much happier with in in regards to usability over haltech and vipec software.

Because of my limited mods it seems i can use the base ignition and fuel maps. Once i get it i plan to make some changes to the base fuel map using my wideband and the fast tuner.

well the software is very different from all other platforms that i have seen. once you know where everything is its pretty good.

i never use the fast tuner... let us know how you go with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...