Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok yesterday pulled the pipe off that goes between my intake and Stock BOV and i put my hand on the outlet and it feels like air is leaking out.

can i block this valve up cause it feels like its leaking on just idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420805-stock-recirc-valve-leaking/
Share on other sites

are they supposed to cause i was under the impression that the BOV shouldnt leak at all only when released when off throttle.

If this is so would blocking the recirc valve like a plate to block it all do any justice or damage to my motor or alter AFR?

Not sure why they leak but as long as the air is recirculating within the piping it is ok.

If it's not plumbed back in, then there is an air leak which causes issues.

Leave it as it should be.

You can tap and grub screw the bleed hole, it works ok, but drivability will suffer. It can shudder a bit when backing off from boost to a light cruise.

The factory put the hole there for a reason, to make it drive smoothly. If you are still on the stock ecu, it's best to leave it alone.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok kool so what if i replaced it with a exit atmo BOV it will play up im guessing also with a 10 psi limit can i put another spring inside the unit or somthin so i can leave it stock and run more boost?

Don't do that, you're going back to the dark ages.. just leave it how it is. I ran 1.3bar though a stock BOV no dramas at all, a simple relatively mod is to crush the top hat down using a vice to put more tension on it.

But you're running 0.7bar of boost, don't waste your time with it.

ok yesterday pulled the pipe off that goes between my intake and Stock BOV and i put my hand on the outlet and it feels like air is leaking out.

can i block this valve up cause it feels like its leaking on just idle.

Its designed this way to stop reversion and to smooth the idle, nearly all skylines are supposed to do it.

ok so what about block the BOV up all together i really hate the noise to be honest ive lost my licence before and i now require my licence for work so last thing i want is attention from coppers with noise my car is stock thought has 3 inch exhaust and yer im abit worried about that aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...