Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh for me voice calls through bluetooth are reliable and consistent. I have never had a drop out from the handsfree.
 
I have never tried bluetooth for the music however so I can't comment on that. I use a wireless display device plugged into the video/audio inputs to get things on the v36 screen and speakers. This has proved very reliable for both video and audio with no dropouts. Problem with this however is the power drain on the phone during wireless screen casting of sat google maps, although for the music/audio still streams when the phones screen is off so it doesn't drain as badly then.

Hey Pete_Repeat,

What device do you have? Would really appreciate if you could provide details of the device, I could possibly try finding it here in Perth. Thanks in advance.
1 hour ago, acesofspades31 said:


Hey Pete_Repeat,

What device do you have? Would really appreciate if you could provide details of the device, I could possibly try finding it here in Perth. Thanks in advance.

I'll have a look before the weekend. MIrabox or something it is. It has MIracast and Airplay capabilities with the coaxial video out and stereo out. I had to use a filter on the power to minmiise noise though.

 

I also had a hdmi to coaxial/stereo box that I plugged my microsoft wirless display stick into and that worked.

 

I stuck with the single MIrabox item though as it was slightly clearer.

I can report on the exact model when I get to the car though. Was approaching $100 but should be found for less than that.

  • Like 1
I'll have a look before the weekend. MIrabox or something it is. It has MIracast and Airplay capabilities with the coaxial video out and stereo out. I had to use a filter on the power to minmiise noise though.
 
I also had a hdmi to coaxial/stereo box that I plugged my microsoft wirless display stick into and that worked.
 
I stuck with the single MIrabox item though as it was slightly clearer.
I can report on the exact model when I get to the car though. Was approaching $100 but should be found for less than that.

Thanks mate. I got it online. I will have to check if I have an input slot at the back of the head unit. Coz the input in the centre console is Japanese / American infiniti version 8/16 pin (not really sure which one). How have you connected your device? Did you connect it from the back of the head unit or straight from the center console?
7 hours ago, acesofspades31 said:


Thanks mate. I got it online. I will have to check if I have an input slot at the back of the head unit. Coz the input in the centre console is Japanese / American infiniti version 8/16 pin (not really sure which one). How have you connected your device? Did you connect it from the back of the head unit or straight from the center console?

Co axial in the centre console. Perhaps it's just a matter of finding the right wires on the back of that plug and wiring them up to an rca plate? Would have thought the analogue video and audio input was on that plug.

There would likely be info out there about this, either for the v3ů or G37 I'd say.

Edit: I vaguely reebr reading itay have both composite and coaxial video on that plug.. But could be wrong.

Edited by Pete_Repeat
  • 2 weeks later...
Co axial in the centre console. Perhaps it's just a matter of finding the right wires on the back of that plug and wiring them up to an rca plate? Would have thought the analogue video and audio input was on that plug.
There would likely be info out there about this, either for the v3ů or G37 I'd say.
Edit: I vaguely reebr reading itay have both composite and coaxial video on that plug.. But could be wrong.

Hey Pete_Repeat,

So I just got the mira box. Nobody in Perth is installing it. I can hook it up to power it but need serious help with having it connected to the head unit. To avoid static, I would like to go for the wired option. I am tired of looking for a cable to go in my aux port in the Centre console since I don't have a standard RCA Input in the center console. Any idea where I can order the cable or adapter from?

Thanks in advance.

Hi jp2en,

I live in christchurch and not long brought a 2010 skyline 370gt navi model.

Are you based down this way or know of anyone in chch doing the jap to eng conversion?

reading this topic from start there's been mention 2010+ models may be easier to convert?

do you know a rough price also?

many thanks in advance

On 7/21/2017 at 1:31 AM, acesofspades31 said:


Hey Pete_Repeat,

So I just got the mira box. Nobody in Perth is installing it. I can hook it up to power it but need serious help with having it connected to the head unit. To avoid static, I would like to go for the wired option. I am tired of looking for a cable to go in my aux port in the Centre console since I don't have a standard RCA Input in the center console. Any idea where I can order the cable or adapter from?

Thanks in advance.

Not sure on the adapter. My car came with the rca inputs already in the centre console/arm rest.

I think this goes in the back of the headunit so is more work, but maybe it'l fit in the unusual connector you have in the centre console.

 

I do stress, I am not speaking from experience for this so hopefully someone whom has done this will comment.

http://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/cart/products-page/car-audio/video-rca-input-cable-harness/

 

  • Like 1
Not sure on the adapter. My car came with the rca inputs already in the centre console/arm rest.
I think this goes in the back of the headunit so is more work, but maybe it'l fit in the unusual connector you have in the centre console.
 
I do stress, I am not speaking from experience for this so hopefully someone whom has done this will comment.
http://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/cart/products-page/car-audio/video-rca-input-cable-harness/
 

Hey Pete_Repeat,
I've contacted sinergy to see if they have it in Stock.. Fingers crossed! Will keep you posted.
If your mira has RCA output, nothing to install, just plug everything in

Hi jp2en,
It seems the previous owner has gotten rid of the RCA inputs and put in the dodgy weird Japanese pins. Hoping sinergy has the RCA cable harness.
On 7/25/2017 at 9:41 PM, acesofspades31 said:


Hi jp2en,
It seems the previous owner has gotten rid of the RCA inputs and put in the dodgy weird Japanese pins. Hoping sinergy has the RCA cable harness.

I think the rca's aren't there for most models, and it's a modification. The aux input plug is on the back of the headunit however for all models with the gps I believe (or maybe the tv I can't remember). I had assumed that "dodgy"  connection should have the video/audio aux input on it though. I read it is probably there for car phones.... But assume it also carries the aux input. Hmm. Hard to find the info. I'm sure its out there. Maybe searching G37 returns more than for the v36, which are very similar I believe with specs

  • Like 1

Looks like maybe.. just maybe the cable I linked before might help him. But best to check.

 

Also worth noting, is the handbrake mod might be needed so the video doesn't cut out when moving. I believe this is just grounding a certain cable, but that might be needed to keep picture showing like mine does. I'd imagine the audio stay anyway. 

 

See this thread, as it may help 

 

 

  • Like 1

One other thing I should point out, is that audio control needs to be done through the phone or a Bluetooth remote. 

I have mine setup that when it detects it is being charged (I use a wireless charging bed I lie my phone in) and Bluetooth connection to the car to automatically put the wireless display on the car screen. This is a bit of messing around to setup and also requires an android phone with tasker (so while very convenient, not for everyone). Normal people will manually begin mirroring.

Having google maps on the screen is a great option. Android auto would be the next step up over screen mirroring (mainly for battery life of the phone means you will want to charge while mirroring with the screen on / audio only  might be fine however as the mobile screen can be off)  but our units don't have android auto as this is a very new technology.

Edited by Pete_Repeat

One option also is to use an android box installed in the car. Perhaps using a bluetooth touchpad to control and include a Bluetooth media remote for ease of changing tracks.

Getting data using your phone hotspot perhaps.

Edited by Pete_Repeat
One option also is to use an android box installed in the car. Perhaps using a bluetooth touchpad to control and include a Bluetooth media remote for ease of changing tracks.
Getting data using your phone hotspot perhaps.

Hi Pete_Repeat,

Many thanks for all the in depth insight on how to get this to work. I've contacted sinergy about the cable harness. Let's see what they have to say. If they can do a conversion to English, I don't even mind driving there from perth to get it done [emoji1]
It's really frustrating to listen to music and then the Bluetooth drops off lol
Looks like maybe.. just maybe the cable I linked before might help him. But best to check.
 
Also worth noting, is the handbrake mod might be needed so the video doesn't cut out when moving. I believe this is just grounding a certain cable, but that might be needed to keep picture showing like mine does. I'd imagine the audio stay anyway. 
 
See this thread, as it may help 
 
 

Hey Pete_Repeat,
I finally got the mirabox installed. However, I am faced with the following challenges :

1. I can mirror screen and screen only... For some reason, my audio isn't mirroring... I think that's because of some sort of limitations of my mirabox may be? Not too sure. My box has WiFi mirroring. May be there's no audio via WiFi? Did you come across something of this sort?

2. Parking brake mod [emoji20]. I've looked through the entire thread and I found its just grounding a cable. But will definitely look extensively on it. Any tips on this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...