Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a series 2 r33 GTST high mount gt3540 etc. running yellow jackets I have noticed on anything above 18psi it's pretty average also quite temperamental and tonight I gave it a little hit and bang runnin 5 cylinders so I did the usual check to find that one of the coils have just completely died out of nowhere curious if anyone has had similar issues with yellow jackets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421667-yellow-jackets-fail/
Share on other sites

I have a series 2 r33 GTST high mount gt3540 etc. running yellow jackets I have noticed on anything above 18psi it's pretty average also quite temperamental and tonight I gave it a little hit and bang runnin 5 cylinders so I did the usual check to find that one of the coils have just completely died out of nowhere curious if anyone has had similar issues with yellow jackets.

I've had similar issues with Splitfires.

Not that I've had anything to do with RB's in a long while but it wouldn't surprise me if splitfires & Yellow Jackets are made in the same factory & branded differently. Happens all the time with audio equipment I've found

I own the Yellow Jackets brand and if you purchased them from me, and they are still under warranty, I will gladly replace the bad coils for you.

If they are not under warranty or you didnt purchase from me send me a PM and I will look after you.

:cheers:

Purchased the car with them installed reciepts put them 2 months out of warranty from what I've heard and from my own experierences I'm just goin. To pick up a set of spitfires aiming for 300kw+ and from a bit of research found the yellowjackets don't like any more then 300

Purchased the car with them installed reciepts put them 2 months out of warranty from what I've heard and from my own experierences I'm just goin. To pick up a set of spitfires aiming for 300kw+ and from a bit of research found the yellowjackets don't like any more then 300

Really? I assume this was online research. Can you point us to it?

Purchased the car with them installed reciepts put them 2 months out of warranty from what I've heard and from my own experierences I'm just goin. To pick up a set of spitfires aiming for 300kw+ and from a bit of research found the yellowjackets don't like any more then 300

That information is oversimplified - you cant state a power figure. Boost level and plug gap will affect at what power level they have problems, like any other coilpack.

Found it online somewhere not sure exactly where picked up a set of spitfires from just jap and car runs awesome runs 20psi where as the yellow jackets broke down at any more then 17psi with a gap of .8 spitfires perform alot better. Best 600$ I've spent

That information is oversimplified - you cant state a power figure. Boost level and plug gap will affect at what power level they have problems, like any other coilpack.

I like what you're saying Adam.

Variables exist that can shorten the life of a coilpack.

I've had other straight sixes (besides my RB) in the form of E46 and E39 BMWs. These cars have 6 separate sensors that tell you which coilpack is breaking down, and thus, which one to replace. And after replacing it, what's to say that same # coilpack might fail again before others do? Why? What if with an ageing engine the corresponding plug # keeps on oiling up? What if the corresponding loom # is losing its suppleness?

In summation, why blame the whole brand when if a coilpack breaks down in an RB engine, we're forced to change the whole set? And even when you change brands, how do you know if it's the same coilpack # that breaks down first each time?

And Adam mentions gapping - so there's another variable eh?

I own the Yellow Jackets brand and if you purchased them from me, and they are still under warranty, I will gladly replace the bad coils for you.

If they are not under warranty or you didnt purchase from me send me a PM and I will look after you.

:cheers:

Dude performance wise is trying to help u out....I know I am going to be buying yellow jackets soon as I havent heard any real bad reviews...I have heard the same troubles sometimes happening to split fires.....

Any brand/product is going to have bad batches/problems, admittedly the more reliable and less problems the better, but customer service and how warranty is handled is just as important. I've had my yellowjackets over 2 years ~40,000 kms now, 1.1 mm plug , 10:1 compression and 10psi at one point and had no problems.

  • Like 1

A good friend of mine also experienced an issue with his Yellow Jackets just recently. Pretty much exactly what you're saying, under high boost the car missed pretty bad. Put OEM's in, no problems.

The seller (possibly performance-wise) was happy to replace the failed unit after a bit of back and forth.

Now that the conversation has turned towards manufacturer service and honouring of warranty; the best I've seen are Super Spark & Yellow Jacket.

Amen to that. I had an issue with one of my YJs when I first got them. Paul sent me a new set before I sent back my original ones allowing me to continue driving int he mean time. I replaced them, put the first batch in a box and sent them back. No sweat, no dramas. Second set have had no issues on a Neo running 12PSI. I intend on going flex fuel + a HG turbo shooting for 300+kw this year (thank you tax return) and will report back if I have any issues.

The service from Paul was second to none and my YJs have so far been great.

My comments were based on the assumption that all parts were in good working order. There is some evidence in this thread that splitfires and OEM produce reliable spark where yellow jackets dont. Assuming we are still talking all parts in good working order, this suggests that yellow jackets produce less power at the plug than splitfires and OEMs. If that is indeed the case, then they're only suitable for stock or near stock motors. If you're chasing power you want as much power as you can get at the plug.

The other issue is failure rate. Yes some new OEMs and Splitfires fail too, that's not an interesting fact. The failure rate, however, is a good indication of whether they will cause you trouble if you purchase them. Even if you can return them, its a pain in the butt.

Anyways - if Trent says he has a lot of trouble with them, that's a good enough reason for me to avoid them, given the consistent high quality of Trents posts, and the fact that he will have seen many more coilpacks than others. Most posters will only have they information on a small number (probably 6) coilpacks and if you know anything about "sample size" you'll know how that can skew results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...