Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GT30 time now so I need a bell mouthed dump/front and inlet pipe to connect the 4"/100mm inlet to the Z32 in the std airbox position - and retain the std recirc and breather plumbing . Black rubber/silicon joiners too if possible .

I rang Liverpool Exhausts and they have nothing off the shelf and would need car to fit , difficult since this dryer isn't fitted yet .

It sounds like Mick or Scott may be able to make these pipes up provided they have jigs to do it because you can't have my daily driven car .

I just need functional stuff that's neat and inconspicuous if possible so the changeover is quick and painless . Not going to argue over dollars because the stuff you turn out looks pretty good .

For the record the dryer is a GT3076R with the GT30 IW five bolt outlet side like an XR6 has only in 0.82AR . Externally identical to Mickos GTX3071R in every way .

If you can help me out please reply or PM , thanks in advance cheers Adrian .

Edited by discopotato03

I had a good look at a certain white 34 getting a GTX3076 fitted at Edge Motorworks yesterday. There was plenty of room for a 30mm spacer, but the 20mm one looked to work perfectly.

T3 spacers are available in 10 13 16 and 20mm thicknesses , 20 is what I'll try to make sure a T04S housing clears if I ever had to use one ie HTA76 etc .

Sonic or GCG seem to have everything except a bell mouthed GT30IW dump pipe so that will have to be made up to suit .

I know people sometimes go big in the tube size but I reckon 3" should be good enough for 300-330 wheel wasps .

I'm going to use the existing coolant and oil fittings from the GTRS kit .

I'm keen to see how the mid trim GT30R goes , once you make the jump to T3 flanged GT30 based turbos it opens up all sorts of possibilities you don't get with GT28 based ones . This is not to say that GTRSs are useless on RB25s and they are a very easy upgrade on a standard engine/car . Not the tool of choice if you want to double the engines output but lots better than the standard ceramic Hitachi turbo .

Anyway someone here , checkbuzz I think , claims his 0.82 52T GT3076R boosts pretty much like his GTRS did but made more power everywhere . That was on an unopened 33 25 from memory and burning PULP .

If Scotty can tune up maybe 320 and have it drive as well or better than it does now I'll be real happy .

Cheers A .

Checkbuzz either had an issue with the setup or is looking at a dyno sheet. The GT-RS is much more responsive than a GT30 based turbo but doesn't go close to have the legs...as you would expect from looking at the turbine.

Yeah looking at them the GT30 hot side is considerably larger . I wouldn't have thought the 52T cold side would make a huge difference spool wise over a 56T but time will tell the difference between it and the GTRS .

Today I bought the manifold and dump studs/nuts and most of the gaskets and copper washers . GCG doesn't have the 20mm spacer available ATM though they stock their GT30IW dump pipe . Its separate dump tube could be larger and formed to a more useful shape at the turbo outlet flange . I looked at pics of XR6T dump pipes and lots of those are made the same way .

A .

Looking forward to seeing how it goes, and how you find it. There is no way it is going to have the low down punch of the GT-RS - however it should be quite liveable, considering a 56T is. Just a different kind of beast, and one which is much nicer suited to the engine it is on.

Most people seem to think that GTRSs are a 250+ KW PULP turbo and I think the E70 allows me to keep the boost and timing up which made 271 at the rollers .

To make more and have the engine a bit more free spinning means more turbine and housing so GT30 hot side is the way to do it . Lith we know that the GT37 compressors are good but later designs are creeping ahead . The 52T GT37 wheel in theory pumps right about what I want which is in between what the available GTX ones do . Arguably a HTA GT30 may do better all round but I own this turbo so why not use it . When tuned and I get to fiddle with the low load numbers I can draw my line in the sand and know if its just right - for me .

Will post up as it happens , cheers A .

250kw+ PULP is pretty ambitious really - as you can probably tell by "only" making 271kw using E70 etc.

Agreed, HTA would be the way to go if you were in that position but having a 52trim there and knowing you won't be looking for insane power means there is no justification in a big change - any ETA for this?

I prefer a single 20mm T3 spacer if anyone knows of any in Sydney , GCG Sonic and Liverpool can't supply ATM .

The studs I have are 41mm so around 20 the limit allowing for the turbo flange and nuts .

Does anyone have a 20mm T3 spacer they can sell me , prefer one 20 to two 10s .

Timeline probably a week after I have all the bits .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...