Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows what R34 V-Spec II's are actuallying selling for at the moment?
I have a rough idea from auction starting prices etc. but never get see what they actually end for.

I'm hoping to start looking for one to import at the end of this month but the budget im aiming for is 55k max, including compliance, shipping, rego and everything else that goes with it.

Basically what im asking is if its possible to get a decent V-Spec II within my budget with low k's and as clean as possible, no or very little scratches inside and out.

It's probably asking alot for what im wanting to pay, but thought i would just check incase lol.

Any help would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422068-r34-v-spec-ii-average-sell-price/
Share on other sites

i just bought a R34 GT-T SEDAN AUTO WITH RB25DET NEO AUCTION GRADE 4-B-A WITH 56,270KM

475,000 yen auction

100,000 fee

100,000 export

475yen a day storeage from may1 til june roro to canada as its a july production its legal here in july 2013 approx. 30,000 yen

i seen a r34 gtr for a starting price of 2.5 mil last week

  • 3 weeks later...

3 million yen at today's rated exchange 1 to 1 approx $48,000 - $50,000 landed complied

condition you would be getting grade 4 car with under 100,000klm or very close to it.

these Vspec2 are a little harder to buy but with the right person giving you auction access should be able to allow you to search and see for yourself.

  • 2 weeks later...

According to J-Spec's calculator, I get the following for a 3 mil car:

AU$ 1,100 J-Spec fee
AU$ 28,645 car cost
COST IN JAPAN = AU$ 29,745
AU$ 1,084 ocean freight
AU$ 4,620 import duty & GST
AU$ 1,100 customs clearance
FREIGHT COSTS = AU$ 6,804
compliance (not specified)
other costs (not specified)
AU$ 1,718 rego & stamp duty
LOCAL COSTS = AU$ 1,718
ON-ROAD COST = AU$ 38,267

Does this sound about right?

Ye that sounds pretty accurate but keep in mind that the auction STARTING prices range from low 3 mil up to 5 and a half mil (for genuine v spec II 5As). What they usually end up going for is quite a bit more than that (in the case of auctions starting at the lower end). So basically with that budget you could expect something mid range. I'd say 4B with probably just over 100000 genuine km. The exchange rate now is better than it was a year or two ago but is still nothing in comparison to what it was 4-5 years ago. Your best bet is finding a clean one in the country that was imported before the slump in exchange rates which would see you paying now roughly 30% more for the same car than you would back then.

Your best bet is finding a clean one in the country that was imported before the slump in exchange rates which would see you paying now roughly 30% more for the same car than you would back then.

I don't quite follow this part. Do you mean finding one in Japan or aus?

Ye that sounds pretty accurate but keep in mind that the auction STARTING prices range from low 3 mil up to 5 and a half mil (for genuine v spec II 5As). What they usually end up going for is quite a bit more than that (in the case of auctions starting at the lower end). So basically with that budget you could expect something mid range. I'd say 4B with probably just over 100000 genuine km. The exchange rate now is better than it was a year or two ago but is still nothing in comparison to what it was 4-5 years ago. Your best bet is finding a clean one in the country that was imported before the slump in exchange rates which would see you paying now roughly 30% more for the same car than you would back then.

lol the exchange rate is 30% BETTER for us, not worse!

Sorry my bad, I've dropped off the loop a bit with the exchange rate. Since I was in Japan a few months ago the exchange rate has improved significntly. Still not as high as it was a few years ago when 1 AUD was buying more than 110 yen, (now costing ~10% more not 30% as I'd mentioned when comparing) but at 1 AUD currently buying over 100 yen, it's certainly a good time to import. The last time we saw exchange rates this good was years ago. I retract my previous comments....... until the exchange rate drops again!!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...