Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Was having this discussion with my mate the other day, Do you guys daily drive you're skyline?

Particularly the GTR's? Because given the fact that half of the one for sale have like 50,000kms on them they can't be daily driven. But doe's anyone on here daily drive theres?

I daily drive my GTT but ofcourse that doesn't compare to a GTR ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422168-daily-driven-skylines/
Share on other sites

I split my daily drive duties between cars, but the R32 GT-R gets a go a few days a week.

The vast majority of the 50,000km examples aren't legit, let alone anything close to daily driven.

Mine says it was imported in 2009 with 77,000km on it and it's at 122,000km now. The guy I bought it off daily drove it.

Not a GTR (of course) but I drive my 4door daily. Not the cheapest on fuel, but the RB growl puts a smile on my face and gives me a tingle both to and from work. Love it !

Most of my driving is pretty much to work and back so why not enjoy it?

plenty are daily driven. plenty of them are imported with "adjusted" odometers (or are altered once here). can be as simple as putting in an odometer with lower kms.

after all, it's not like the skyline (gtr or not) is some ultra rare,, fragile, expensive supercar (although some people might think they are)

plenty are daily driven. plenty of them are imported with "adjusted" odometers (or are altered once here). can be as simple as putting in an odometer with lower kms.

after all, it's not like the skyline (gtr or not) is some ultra rare,, fragile, expensive supercar (although some people might think they are)

Hell the stagea just has all the same engine and suspension bits in a family wagon.

I daily drove my HCR32, then my GT-R. Been daily-ing my GT-R for two years now, sometimes hitting 1,000+km per week (for old work). Yes fuel wise it's stupid, but hey, they are cars and are meant to be driven. Only issue I had were the AFMs playing up and an alternator dying, but it's a twenty year old car, what do you expect? Don't know why people thing they will explode every time you hit boost.

Nowadays I do far less kms, but will park it as soon as I rego my R31, it's not that safe parked at train station.

BTW, low km imports are generally a load of crap. When I bought the Nismo cluster for mine, I wound the km forward to match the old cluster's mileage.

Don't drive my R33 GTR daily as I have a company car besides fuel costs too much, not the most comfortably car to be in for long distances and attracts too much attention.

Pfft. I'm 200 k's north of centy coast on a getaway with my skyline. No one has said shit and it drives shweeeeeet

I daily drive my gtst to and from work all week, and then go out of my way to drive it for leisure on the weekends too. Its age makes it a bit more finicky and cantankerous than the Toyota Prius next to me at the lights, but I'm much happier in my car than I would be in that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...