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Hi All,

I've been dealing with this issue for a few months now and virtually everybody I've spoken to about it is stumped (jetwreck helped out HEAPS with this but still haven't quite gotten to the bottom of it) so if you have any thoughts as to what might be causing this (no matter how unusual) It would be greatly appreciated:

My 2003 M35 Stagea has a stalling issue. It seems to stall more frequently when cold however it still stalls when warm. Generally it seems to stall when the car is changing up gears (usually when taking off at the lights), however this is not always as sometimes it will stall when leaving it to warm up in the driveway. Once it has stalled it takes a few minutes to get it going again, it tries to turn over but won't get there and you can hear that the fuel pump isn't running.

Obvious solution is sensors however now virtually every probable sensor has been replaced. Fuel pump and filter have been replaced. I've gone through and cleaned all the plugs as the engine bay was full of sand when I bought it. My current thoughts are faulty immobiliser or key barrel but it's a long shot and seems unlikely.

Other strange things that MAY be related:
ECU sometimes gives the Boost sensor A malfunction error code, but it seems to come and go. I occasionally get a 4WD warning light after stalling (ATTESA fluid is topped up). Fuel mileage is rubbish, might be normal but I've sometimes hit low fuel light at 250kms of 98 (O2 sensors havent been replaced but this wouldn't cause stalling would it?). Auto power windows switch doesn't work, goes up halfway then back down.

This all may sound irrelevant but I am getting near my tolerance of this issue and wanna get it sussed out.

Any random thoughts would be super helpful! Thanks all :)

If the fuel pump isn't running then that's the place to start? Are you sure the fuel pump has been replaced? i.e you were just 'told' it was replaced. I reckon it may be pump or injectors especially if there was sand everywhere it may be in the tank wrecking the fuel pump or maybe even a blocked injector or something?

That fuel mileage is TERRIFYING!

At least test the O2 to eliminate it.

haha my bank account is terrified also. Yeh I think it is definitely something worth addressing.

If the fuel pump isn't running then that's the place to start? Are you sure the fuel pump has been replaced? i.e you were just 'told' it was replaced. I reckon it may be pump or injectors especially if there was sand everywhere it may be in the tank wrecking the fuel pump or maybe even a blocked injector or something?

You are 100% correct. Apparently the fuel tank was full of sand, as was the throttle body and everything else (according to hills...) however, I have it on good authority that the fuel pump and filter was replaced (Craig Jetwreck managed to oversee the job). How would I diagnose a blocked injector?

I would get the fuel tank pulled again and check for sand. It may be the case the pump and filter were replaced but the tank not cleaned out. The fuel filter gets clogged with sand and when it stalls the suction stops and sand is released back to the bottom of the tank and it will start again. The pump may be no good again after doing this a few times either. Where did you get the car from is it still under some sort of warranty? Sand in the car like that sounds like it may have been under a bit of water at some stage in its life.

In regards to the window issue. I had the same when I first got it and shortly after I burned out the window motor. And have also found a dew others with the same issue.

You need to reset the window motor position settings. When you take the door skin off, right about the middle of the motor there is a black round sticker. Behind that sticker is a small button. I can't remember exactly what order to do it but it's something like hold it down while putting the window up to full and then releasing it. But don't quote me on that. Just play around a but and eventually you will get it sorted.

Hope that sorts atleast one problem for you. Good luck with the stalling issue mate

Other strange things that MAY be related:

ECU sometimes gives the Boost sensor A malfunction error code, but it seems to come and go. I occasionally get a 4WD warning light after stalling (ATTESA fluid is topped up). Fuel mileage is rubbish, might be normal but I've sometimes hit low fuel light at 250kms of 98 (O2 sensors havent been replaced but this wouldn't cause stalling would it?). Auto power windows switch doesn't work, goes up halfway then back down.

This all may sound irrelevant but I am getting near my tolerance of this issue and wanna get it sussed out.

Any random thoughts would be super helpful! Thanks all :)

As far as the above strange things go:

Boost sensor error code, 4WD warning light & window switch in auto up position - all of these happen to me at various times & never had stalling so not related.

Fuel economy is, as Dale said, terrifying! That may have something to do with your probllem. If I had to drink 80L in 250km I'd stall too, lol.

When you say most sensors have been replaced, does that include cam position sensor/s? And what about the fuel pump relay?

See attachment for more info (G35 but relevant).

Fuel pump info.pdf

Otherwise, what Rich says above about rechecking for sand in tank & also for blocked injectors (remove & inspect/have tested or swap for known working ones) is good advice.

I would get the fuel tank pulled again and check for sand. It may be the case the pump and filter were replaced but the tank not cleaned out. The fuel filter gets clogged with sand and when it stalls the suction stops and sand is released back to the bottom of the tank and it will start again. The pump may be no good again after doing this a few times either. Where did you get the car from is it still under some sort of warranty? Sand in the car like that sounds like it may have been under a bit of water at some stage in its life.

Yeh it is a good point, I'll see if I can get it checked. Nah unfortunately warranty is finished now, it's a north shore prestige import but i'm second aus owner and the guy before me lived right on the beach so I think it's just come from there (not driven into the ocean haha)

In regards to the window issue. I had the same when I first got it and shortly after I burned out the window motor. And have also found a dew others with the same issue.

You need to reset the window motor position settings. When you take the door skin off, right about the middle of the motor there is a black round sticker. Behind that sticker is a small button. I can't remember exactly what order to do it but it's something like hold it down while putting the window up to full and then releasing it. But don't quote me on that. Just play around a but and eventually you will get it sorted.

Hope that sorts atleast one problem for you. Good luck with the stalling issue mate

That is really helpful, thanks mate! :)

As far as the above strange things go:

Boost sensor error code, 4WD warning light & window switch in auto up position - all of these happen to me at various times & never had stalling so not related.

Fuel economy is, as Dale said, terrifying! That may have something to do with your probllem. If I had to drink 80L in 250km I'd stall too, lol.

When you say most sensors have been replaced, does that include cam position sensor/s? And what about the fuel pump relay?

See attachment for more info (G35 but relevant).

attachicon.gifFuel pump info.pdf

Otherwise, what Rich says above about rechecking for sand in tank & also for blocked injectors (remove & inspect/have tested or swap for known working ones) is good advice.

Yeh CAM angle, mass airflow and one other (I can't remember what it was as I didn't do it but it's right up next to the firewall and half way down the engine, It was a pain in the ass to get to). Thanks for the advice! For some reason I can't open that file? I'll check it when I'm out the office though and see if that makes any difference. Thanks :)

do you have an aftermarket blow off valve or check the operation of the standard one to make sure that it closes before you get back to idle as a rich condition with the valve open will cause a stall

I did have to replace the ignition barrel on may car as the switch was disconnecting when I drove. I used to have a few keys hanging off it so I removed some keys and had a play with the key and was able to replicae the car turniung off whilst driving.

For some reason I can't open that file?

Yeah, neither can I & I can't reload it. Something up with the site???

I'll try to PM it to you.

  • 3 months later...

My machine stalled for the first time today. I get the same ~ kms per tank as stated by the original thread poster. I have not replaced the CAM sensors, so i'm going to give that a try. No fault codes have logged yet, so that is a bit concerning. The stall happened when coming to a halt at traffic lights. Car drives just fine under load. Not entirely sure what going on. AFM, crank, O2 sensor and fuel filter have all been replaced. Im at a bit of a loss as to what the issue is.

My machine stalled for the first time today. I get the same ~ kms per tank as stated by the original thread poster. I have not replaced the CAM sensors, so i'm going to give that a try. No fault codes have logged yet, so that is a bit concerning. The stall happened when coming to a halt at traffic lights. Car drives just fine under load. Not entirely sure what going on. AFM, crank, O2 sensor and fuel filter have all been replaced. Im at a bit of a loss as to what the issue is.

My problem ended up being the immobiliser. It was wired badly to the fuel pump and would just trip up from time to time and cause it to stall. Although not a hugely common problem I do believe it has happened to a few people on here so it could be worth checking it out.

So there's no rough running, no loss of power or any other symptoms? Sounds like an electrical connection dropping out. Does it ever fail when driving over a sharp bump or pothole?

I'd run a couple of wires connected with the fuel pump contacts with an LED or some other bulb temporarily to the dash to see if power to the fuel pump is the issue. Or maybe just check it with a multimeter when ever its dropped out and wont start.

Skylines have a fuel pump control module that reduces power to the fuel pump at idle, via a "soft" earth, which makes the earth connection via a resistor. After having two fail in my 32 GTR I just ran a direct earth to bypass it entirely. Many guys also do that with aftermarket fuel pumps which want to see the full 14v at all times.

The stalling issue wont be the o2 sensors. Fix the stalling first then see what happens with economy. No sense in complicating the troubleshooting.

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