Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If the OP wants to waste his money on going backwards in performance then good on him. Who are we to tell someone how to spend there money, even if it's being wasted.

All we can do is just put palm to face and move on. The real bagging can happen if the practical results don't meet the OP's claims, we hope he'll post up final results regardless.

Ok a bit of an update head was checked by me and was bent it can be straightened. The straightening will increase compression greatly but he 25 block will drop it greatly so I have some numbers to play with :) So far the head is going to cost me about 2500 I plan on spending 2k on the computer and ignition so to come under the 10k mark it leaves me with 5k for block and fuel system. Costs will blow out so I have to play it safe with my money.

The head price is service,porting,machining and a cam.

Hang on.... So the head is warped. If you plan on straightening it by just milling the face, the cam shaft wont fit correctly as the tunnel would also be warped.

If you anticipate the comp will rise significantly by machining the head to straighten it, it would definitively not be consistent across the cylinders, as the warp means more material will be removed from certain areas.

Anyway, all the best with the build, it's certainly something different :)

Already got one bro but the build on that will be epic when I can afford it. The 25/30 will be turbo and forecasts are in the region of 30k for that build the 30/25 will be cheap as possible porting and chamber work will be the big cost.

Ok a bit of an update head was checked by me and was bent it can be straightened. The straightening will increase compression greatly but he 25 block will drop it greatly so I have some numbers to play with :) So far the head is going to cost me about 2500 I plan on spending 2k on the computer and ignition so to come under the 10k mark it leaves me with 5k for block and fuel system. Costs will blow out so I have to play it safe with my money.

The head price is service,porting,machining and a cam.

Far out bro, i think this whole build is rediculous and throwing away money u won't get back, hope u realise a 2JZ is good for 600hp stock internals!! The worlds fastest NA-Turbo supra runs 7.77, thats right with NA Bottom end!! Even a 1JZ VVT will make rediculous power and has higher potential over 33 rb25 and will last longer. U can buy these motors with everything u need for way less.

But if u want most bang 4 ya buck, i'd go rb25 neo - More torque over r33, stronger internals, VVT, newer/lesskm's. Just thrown on a head gasket and youre good to go for some serious HP depending on supporting mods. Like others said it's in you're best interests, both HP and financially to cut youre losses and stop b4 it gets way out of hand!

I dont mind a 30/30 as the single cam can be ported and get good power, but next you'll be saying to scap the E and go with C (Carby) to get more power.

You've turned a RB25DET into a RB25DEBT, cuz b4 it even turns over youll have no money left.

Edited by discoPumpkin

Got any proof of this 7.7 second natro supra? cause I call bullshit. up until recently the turbo and supercharged engines were running those sorts of times, and that's with over 1000hp. there is no way you'll get that sort of power from a natro 2jz. sure they may be using a natro bottom end on the motors, but they will have a massive amount of boost going into it

Got any proof of this 7.7 second natro supra? cause I call bullshit. up until recently the turbo and supercharged engines were running those sorts of times, and that's with over 1000hp. there is no way you'll get that sort of power from a natro 2jz. sure they may be using a natro bottom end on the motors, but they will have a massive amount of boost going into it

Correct me if I'm wrong (Can't be f**ked re reading his post) but he did say NA Bottom end, turbo on top...

Far out bro, i think this whole build is rediculous and throwing away money u won't get back, hope u realise a 2JZ is good for 600hp stock internals!! The worlds fastest NA-Turbo supra runs 7.77, thats right with NA Bottom end!! Even a 1JZ VVT will make rediculous power and has higher potential over 33 rb25 and will last longer. U can buy these motors with everything u need for way less.

But if u want most bang 4 ya buck, i'd go rb25 neo - More torque over r33, stronger internals, VVT, newer/lesskm's. Just thrown on a head gasket and youre good to go for some serious HP depending on supporting mods. Like others said it's in you're best interests, both HP and financially to cut youre losses and stop b4 it gets way out of hand!

I dont mind a 30/30 as the single cam can be ported and get good power, but next you'll be saying to scap the E and go with C (Carby) to get more power.

You've turned a RB25DET into a RB25DEBT, cuz b4 it even turns over youll have no money left.

I am not building a turbo engine. As for bottom ends you have no idea I will be using different pistons as the 25 pistons will drop the compression the head is bent so after machining I hope to see near 12:1.

Con rods will be changed other than that the rest is identical thinking AM forge I beams or peen'd and machined 26 rods"..

OMG all this 4 non turbo? Why would u waste all youre money and youre mates time on this when its gona just suck, i'm only saying this to save u the money because afterwards u will regret it.

Hell u can get r33 turbo manuals for 6 grand on ebay and that includes the car lol. Now in complete stock standard form it will make the same amount of power u will make, but then if it comes with mds and high boost it will blow youre NA out the water

I don't care if this does not make 11ty billion killer wasps I still don't understand what the fuss is over peak power figures ffs. I have no care for dick size contests the engine I will build will be plenty fast for my needs.

Also this is the n/a section of the forum not the turbo section so why are you intent on annoying me with turbo this and turbo that.

Edited by pf.

But why not spend the money doing this with a 25 or 26 head?

The reasons have been mentioned in previous posts but ill give you the cliffs version.

There is no point of having more flow if it is not required the 30 head will be cheaper and provide me with all I need.

I still don't understand what the fuss is over peak power figures ffs. I have no care for dick size contests

All I'm saying is, my motors bigger than yours :whistling:

It's a completely mind fark concept of a project.... I can't wait for the day (and you will have one) after it's all together and paid for and you put it on a dyno and go "oh... ok, maybe i should of listened to those guys on that Internet thingamo" and then (I like this part) your going to look at your little pile of recipts in your hand and quickly do the sums in your head, then swear, and think to yourself "for this money I could of made 3 times this amount of power.... Good thing i don't care about power". Which boggles my mind as that if you don't care about power, why try and build a "performance" engine?

And then this will most likely be my favourite part, when you come back here with figures and we're all going to laugh at you and say we told you so :thumbsup:

Abort mission son, ABORT!

Guys, STFU.

He has a turbo motor he's building, lets see what he can do with this one. He's confident it'll give good gains, and mate our theory is wrong.

So lets let him spend HIS money in PEACE and get us some actual facts.

It sounds like it'll then be a good comparison to Greg's 25/30

Guys, STFU.

He has a turbo motor he's building, lets see what he can do with this one. He's confident it'll give good gains, and mate our theory is wrong.

So lets let him spend HIS money in PEACE and get us some actual facts.

It sounds like it'll then be a good comparison to Greg's 25/30

Gregs was a 26/30 ;)

Gregs was a 26/30 ;)

I know, and that's why it'll be interesting to compare.

This is going to be pretty much the opposite.

OP Feels this will make the same, if not more power then a 25/30 N/A as he's staying SOHC. So it will be a good comparison.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...