Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard Oil/water Cooler Alternatives On 33 Gtst Track Car - What Have You Done

JZP

By JZP,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

JZP Proficient

JZP

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, thought this would be better in motorsport section.

Long story short, engine is out of the track car (big end bearing).

While it's out, I've looked at the standard water/oil cooler spaghetti and would like to clean it up & remove what's not needed. Possibly bypass/remove the whole lot (heater hoses, etc).

Obviously I need to keep the water lines to the turbo, but it seems the rest is useful for a regular road car, but no use on a track car.

I have some thoughts, but wanted to know what NEEDS to stay there for a track car, knowing it is going to stay at high RPM's and get hot.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

JZP Proficient

JZP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

So, as far as bypassing the heater hoses & whole silver circular thing there are no special considerations for plumbing from the thermo housing to the back of the block?

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Should be able to just block them off at each end. This is one of the things I'm waiting to play with when my old engine comes out and I prep the new engine for install.

I have a HEL oil cooler kit but it was a pain dealing with them. Good quality setrab cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate. I think the grex sandwich plates are very similar and I'd go one of them with a good cooler and lines

  • 2 weeks later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block.

It is not a good thing in a track car because:

* You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan

* They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil

* Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa

* Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
Posted

Also I suggest mounting the oil cooler down in the front left corner. Ducting or partitioning it works even better, as it forces air through the oil cooler. Even if smaller and on an angle I think it is better to locate there, as more efficient without effecting air flow through the intercooler and radiator, even more so if the car runs a condensor for the a/c..

JZP Proficient

JZP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block.

It is not a good thing in a track car because:

* You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan

* They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil

* Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa

* Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.

Good points Duncan. As usual valuable input.

Will investigate the RB20/Stagea mounts.

JZP Proficient

JZP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also I suggest mounting the oil cooler down in the front left corner. Ducting or partitioning it works even better, as it forces air through the oil cooler. Even if smaller and on an angle I think it is better to locate there, as more efficient without effecting air flow through the intercooler and radiator, even more so if the car runs a condensor for the a/c..

Hey mate, no A/C! ...because race car!

Yeah, planned to duct it somehow.

Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted

well the heater is actually beneficial for the engines cooling, if your water is over heating you can turn on the heater to hottest and the core under the dash works as a 2nd heat sink. same for warming up a cold engine, put heater on coldest so the valve is closed that comes from the heater hose at the block

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

So, as far as bypassing the heater hoses & whole silver circular thing there are no special considerations for plumbing from the thermo housing to the back of the block?

I've connected the thermostat housing to the rear of the block rather than just plugging them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...