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Standard Oil/water Cooler Alternatives On 33 Gtst Track Car - What Have You Done


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Hey guys, thought this would be better in motorsport section.

Long story short, engine is out of the track car (big end bearing).

While it's out, I've looked at the standard water/oil cooler spaghetti and would like to clean it up & remove what's not needed. Possibly bypass/remove the whole lot (heater hoses, etc).

Obviously I need to keep the water lines to the turbo, but it seems the rest is useful for a regular road car, but no use on a track car.

I have some thoughts, but wanted to know what NEEDS to stay there for a track car, knowing it is going to stay at high RPM's and get hot.

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

So, as far as bypassing the heater hoses & whole silver circular thing there are no special considerations for plumbing from the thermo housing to the back of the block?

Should be able to just block them off at each end. This is one of the things I'm waiting to play with when my old engine comes out and I prep the new engine for install.

I have a HEL oil cooler kit but it was a pain dealing with them. Good quality setrab cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate. I think the grex sandwich plates are very similar and I'd go one of them with a good cooler and lines

  • 2 weeks later...

switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block.

It is not a good thing in a track car because:

* You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan

* They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil

* Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa

* Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.

Also I suggest mounting the oil cooler down in the front left corner. Ducting or partitioning it works even better, as it forces air through the oil cooler. Even if smaller and on an angle I think it is better to locate there, as more efficient without effecting air flow through the intercooler and radiator, even more so if the car runs a condensor for the a/c..

switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block.

It is not a good thing in a track car because:

* You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan

* They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil

* Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa

* Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.

Good points Duncan. As usual valuable input.

Will investigate the RB20/Stagea mounts.

Also I suggest mounting the oil cooler down in the front left corner. Ducting or partitioning it works even better, as it forces air through the oil cooler. Even if smaller and on an angle I think it is better to locate there, as more efficient without effecting air flow through the intercooler and radiator, even more so if the car runs a condensor for the a/c..

Hey mate, no A/C! ...because race car!

Yeah, planned to duct it somehow.

well the heater is actually beneficial for the engines cooling, if your water is over heating you can turn on the heater to hottest and the core under the dash works as a 2nd heat sink. same for warming up a cold engine, put heater on coldest so the valve is closed that comes from the heater hose at the block

Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.

Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.

So, as far as bypassing the heater hoses & whole silver circular thing there are no special considerations for plumbing from the thermo housing to the back of the block?

I've connected the thermostat housing to the rear of the block rather than just plugging them.

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