Possible R&r? Only 10Psi, Happens Randomly?

[paulr33]

the r32 Actuator is actually a 12psi from the service manual

so your running 12psi boost standard from the spring (you cant run less than the spring)

the ER34 ecu has a boost map sensor which is different to ECR33 "excess airflow" mapping

the ER34 actually watches how much boost is present and has a safety back/off mode which you would be hitting

youll need to remap it or you can try unplugging the boost sensor and just plugging up the vac line to it

this might make the ER34 ECU ignore the faulty boost reading of vacuum (technically its valid) and wont trip the excess boost limit

(from the archives)

mythbusters ahoy!

  Quote

Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx A ~ B kgcm2 into the hose and make sure the swing valve controller rod operates.

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi
BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi
ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi
ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi
BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know

[GTSBoy]

From direct experience I say that RB20DET actuators are 10 psi. They don't make 12 until you have a decent exhaust on the car.

From direct experience with an auto R34 actuator, hooked direct from turbo outlet to actuator, I say they are 5 psi like the auto R33s, although with a big exhaust on it I have seen mine peak at about 7. That will all change very soon when I get the boost controller back on it.

The R34 boost sensor will not shut down the show until much higher boost than 10-12psi.

R&R on R33 and R34 ECUs doesn't really exist as a separate function. It is just a massively rich and retarded section at the top right hand corner of the maps. They are simlpy mapped rich and retarded. The fueling in the injection map is actually so extreme that it is well over 100% duty cycle for the standard injectors!

R32 ECUs were much less overfuelled in the top right hand corner, but would would actually pull even more timing than the knock map's reduced advance if the engine continued to knock after switching to the knock map. I don't know if R33 and 4 ECUs retain that function because the base maps are so ridiculous to start with. The R34 ECU certainly seems to have a bunch of other emo functions built into it though.

[paulr33]

the service manual says hr32 spring should open around 12psi so thats what i was going off

should be easy to unplug vac line to HR34 boost sensor, plug up the vac line and let the sensor read atmosphere pressure

this should confirm quickly and see if you avoid the rich and retard from too much boost

[hop1308]

im sort of leaning towards the fact that it may be something spark related. since it has been happening more recently compared to before.

but then again it is muuuch colder now days and it could just be the colder air and the ecu having a fit.

such a headache, dunno what to do guys..

[mad082]

Start with the easy stuff. How old are your spark plugs? If you aren't sure, or they have been in there for a while then get new spark plugs. Ngk Bcpr6es is what you want to use. They will cost you about $30 for a set of 6. This will be the cheapest if the possible causes to fix, and most likely the one that will solve your problem. I don't think you are hitting r&r. It just seems to be everyone's go to response on this forum. If plugs don't solve the issue then try taping up the lower part of the coilpacks with electrical tape. If that makes things better then you need new coils.

[dontyellpl0x]

  On 19/05/2013 at 6:22 AM, mad082 said:

If plugs don't solve the issue then try taping up the lower part of the coilpacks with electrical tape. If that makes things better then you need new coils.

What does taping up the lower part of the coilpacks do?

Thanks,

Chris

[GTSBoy]

It's eaxtra electrical insulation. When coilpacks start to fail, they start to leak spark out through cracks in the casing.

[hop1308]

  On 19/05/2013 at 6:22 AM, mad082 said:

Start with the easy stuff. How old are your spark plugs? If you aren't sure, or they have been in there for a while then get new spark plugs. Ngk Bcpr6es is what you want to use. They will cost you about $30 for a set of 6. This will be the cheapest if the possible causes to fix, and most likely the one that will solve your problem. I don't think you are hitting r&r. It just seems to be everyone's go to response on this forum. If plugs don't solve the issue then try taping up the lower part of the coilpacks with electrical tape. If that makes things better then you need new coils.

thanks mad, ill get on it as soon as possible.

just curious though, i heard you'd need platinum sparks or better spark plugs in a skyline, especially if you want them to last longer. $30 for 6 sounds very cheap, are these good ones that will last?

[GTSBoy]

Nissan's standard plug is platinum. This is simply because they are buried down under a pile of crap in an RB engine and platinums have a loooong life, making it less of a pain to have to replace them. This was even more true for various FWD V6s that only used platinums on the rear bank and copper plugs on the front bank!

Coppers work better than platinums anyway. Keep them fresh, change them every couple of years.

[mad082]

Yeah, the standard plugs are iridium, not platinum. Both platinum and iridium plugs last longer than copper plugs, but they cost about 5 times as much, but don't last 5 times as long in my experience.

The copper plugs I mentioned are what plenty of people run, and they work just fine. You will need to change them every 15,000 to 20,000kms though, depending on the conditions of your coils.

[GTSBoy]

There was no such thing as an iridium plug when the RB engines were designed.

[hop1308]

okay seeing as its a head ache to get to the sparks anyways. while im there what should I look for and what else should I check for?

[500hp]

Sounds like you could be sucking in air , it is possible to be sucking air around the throttle body gaskets and that can make it pop I'd try replacing them.

[500hp]

Also mate I'd be checking all Of Your injectors all working Properly, sounds like a faulty injector to me.

Edited May 20, 2013 by 500hp

[Ben C34]

take it somewhere that knows what they are doing. You have been told heaps of times possible causes and still have done nothing.

[Ben C34]

  On 20/05/2013 at 6:43 PM, 500hp said:

Sounds like you could be sucking in air , it is possible to be sucking air around the throttle body gaskets and that can make it pop I'd try replacing them.

sucking in air around throttle body.... no.

the issue is happening on boost.

[500hp]

Injector

[niZmO_Man]

Spark plugs: BCPR6ES-8

I put an R34 turbo on my old R32, NEO6 turbo gate = 5psi (same pressure was seen on my relo's car, he had turbo-back bigger exhaust with standard NEO6 turbo, the bleeder solenoid thing wasn't hooked up). R32 gate = 10psi.

My two cents.

[hop1308]

yeah, im going to change the spark plugs in a few days. as soon as i get the time.

im sure its not sucking air as i had that problem in an old car and that causes totally different symptoms.

anyways, i was just wondering if theres anything else i should check and what i should do to check it when i open the cover and change the spark plugs. like if i've already opened it is there anything else relevant there that should also be checked? e.g coils?

thanks for all the help guys, ill post back with results after the change of plugs

[Ben C34]

you have already been told to inspect/tape up coil packs and change plugs
What advice do you want? What do you think is under the cover. while changing spark plugs??

There are coils and spark plugs. Thats all you can check there..

Is that suprising??