Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My r32 gtst isn't on the road at the moment but when I had it tuned he said only to run BP Ultimate fuel..

After searching through the forums a bit I've found that BP and Shell are pretty much the same.

So if I fill up with Shell 98 will my car run like crap?

(Closest BP is about 30min drive from where I live, compared to Shell 5min walk)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425409-r32-fuel/
Share on other sites

I've read (but have no idea whether it is true) that 7/11 use Mobil fuel, so 7/11 98 is actually Mobil 98 which wasn't too bad to fill up on in the past, again from searching here.

Hmm.. Might just grab a jerry can and grab some BP Ultimate.. Don't think I have enough fuel to make it there aha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425409-r32-fuel/#findComment-6855072
Share on other sites

OK first of all

how modified is the GTST?

my 32 with a 25 - 366 whp it was tuned on 98 BP but i had no issues on shell 98 or caltex 98 etc

Nothing too special.

High mount t04e with external gate

3" exhaust 4" cannon

Pod filter

Pretty big FMIC

Tuned by chiptorque 171kw :/

That's about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425409-r32-fuel/#findComment-6855144
Share on other sites

Since you are in Qld , the fuel will be sourced from BP Bulway Island or Caltex Lytton ,

So, your saying any 98 RON is fine in Qld?

Because he even siphoned the old 98 out, swap fuel filter for a new one and put full tank of BPultimate in, free of charge..

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425409-r32-fuel/#findComment-6856080
Share on other sites

So, your saying any 98 RON is fine in Qld?

Because he even siphoned the old 98 out, swap fuel filter for a new one and put full tank of BPultimate in, free of charge..

He did that so to make sure the fuel in the tank is new and fresh, which is what's best to tune on.

Also to keep the RON up.

BP or Shell 98 RON will do you fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425409-r32-fuel/#findComment-6857714
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...