Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Best results seem to favour the turbo housing, as long as the gate can get good flow. I managed to help squeeze 430kw out of the factory manifold using a gate off the housing.

Welding the the manifold makes it too hard to clean up the inside with a die grinder afterwards. You can't just weld a gate on at a 90 and expect it to flow well.

post-63525-0-70435100-1386385581_thumb.jpg

Housing sounds good. Preparing to invest in a HTA 3076 :turned:
Obviously staying low mount for a more standard appearance but wanted to know many people are going that way.
Any idea what kinda of power I could push with one running 16-20psi with supporting mods? Car's a 33 GTST. I'm still running standard head gasket but previous owned had forged motor built. So I'm not sure how much boost I can push.

Edited by GotsWapan

Depends on your choice of fuel mate :)

Housing sounds good. Preparing to invest in a HTA 3076 :turned:

Obviously staying low mount for a more standard appearance but wanted to know many people are going that way.

Any idea what kinda of power I could push with one running 16-20psi with supporting mods? Car's a 33 GTST. I'm still running standard head gasket but previous owned had forged motor built. So I'm not sure how much boost I can push.

An FP3076HTA is a lot of turbo for BP98 and stock exhaust manifold etc. Be sure that it's definitely the turbo that is holding you back in power, otherwise you could spend a lot of money and not get the kind of return you want... or expect.

No worries. I appreciate the input. Been having dramas gettin decent power becuase I cheaped out in the first turbo I bought for it.

Whats on it now?

Tuners are always fond of pointing the finger at a turbo, even the best tuners I've used will do it. Maybe describe what you have (if its still on there) and we can give some pointers in relation to what it should be doing and where it may have gone wrong?

Its a GTX3076R with a 0.82 rear housing with standard dump pipe flange. I've been told they're no good for flow by a few members on here. Can you confirm or correct this please :happy: I'm aiming upwards of 280rwkw
I'm only making 220rwkw at 16-18 psi

Edited by GotsWapan

Wtf. What engine is that on? And what standard dump pipe flange? While I prefer the HTA turbos... A GTX3076R should be yawning at that power level, this is definitely sounding like a case of working out what isn't working the way it should. I wouldn't spend a lot of money swapping turbos at this stage

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

RB25DET Built with Nitto/JE Pistons and rings and spool rods. All bottom end was assebled professionally with Reco'd head. Boostn Imports was selling kit a while ago that came with a Sonic/MTQ rear housing that bolts to the standard dump pipe, internally gated of course. I was silly and didn't do my research and I cheaped out and bought it.
Other mods are full 3" exhaust, 600x300x80mm cooler, button clutch. ECU is a Wolf 3d V4. Fuel is with 044 and Nismo 740cc injectors.

I thought I bought all the correct supporting mods but I think its the turbo holding it back.

Edited by GotsWapan

No way that it's the turbo holding you back. Might be your standard dump. Is your Cat a highflow aswell I knocked mine out and got 280kws at 16psi with boost tapering off to 12.Clutch was slipping too. With a stock engine.

As others have said no way it's the turbo.

With a R33 highflow.

Its a full 3" similar to a JJR one. I'm sort of lost in what to do now. Cat is a stainless 3" good quality one

Even Ash R31 Nismoid suggested it was a rubbish housing.

The car makes no more power after 6000rpm

Edited by GotsWapan

Definitely the housing mate you will probably find its a .70 and not a .82 as suggested..I was offered the same housing on my GTX3071 and ditched it for a garrett housing my car went onto make 288kw on 98 and 336kw on E85. I can 100% assure you that's the issue might be up for cool grand for a .82 garrett rear and a new dump pipe plus a tickle up on your tune but that's less than half the price of the turbo.. Maybe a bit more if ya not handy on the tools :yes:

Thanks, now thats been confirmed. Would you suggest the 5 bolt genuine garret IW or a 4 bolt external with wastegate setup? The only reason I ask is that I've heard sometimes the wastegate flapper on the housing sometimes need machining for higher boost.

I had 5 bolt genuine garrett IWG with 14psi actuator and it held 25psi with a good EBC fine boost dropped to 23 up top but that's cause the turbo was maxed out. IWG will be cheaper and easier to set up and will probably still net ya 280kw easy

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...