Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark Leads For Rb20E In R33

JediKnightBoB

By JediKnightBoB,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JediKnightBoB Apprentice

JediKnightBoB

Posted
Posted

Hi!

I'm servicing the RB20E on the R33 I just got. I went to SCA, got some Bosch spark leads, Part #B6080i. The book says they suit an RB20E from an R31, but it can't be too different, right?

Anyway, the actual plug sockets are a lot longer on these leads than on my current ones, so the cables don't fit as nicely. I'd prefer to get new cables the same as my current ones to make sure my leads aren't going to pop off when I get on the loud pedal.

Does anyone have a Part # for spark leads that are confirmed to fit R33 RB20E?

Old mate at SCA checked online and these leads aren't listed for the R33, but they are listed for the R31. There are two other lead manufacturers with leads in the SCA system to suit this engine, and they are both listed for the R33 and the R31, so it stands to reason that these leads should fit both engines as well, but they're not a nice fit.

Cheers,
B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427080-spark-leads-for-rb20e-in-r33/
Share on other sites
Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

An RB20E in a R33 is a rare engine for an import and few people would have exposure to them (we know they exist but you just do not see many).

Some pictures of the engine and engine bay may help people shed some light on your problem.

jhjones Rising Star

jhjones

Posted
Posted

Are you talking about the lead that connects to the coil pack? I tried the bosch 6080i ages ago and found that lead didn't fit nicely so I bought some eagle leads and it was the exact same. I left it like that and didn't have a problem.

JediKnightBoB Apprentice

JediKnightBoB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I bought the whole set; the coil-distributor lead and the six spark leads. They're not quite right but they're close enough that you can make them fit pretty easily. I've just finished the full service and she's running smoothly, even though the leads don't feel like they grab the plugs very snugly (they're very easy to pull off).

I'm going to keep my old set and next time I service it, I'll take those in to a Burson's or something and get a match for each lead.

Bennis Rising Star

Bennis

Posted
Posted

I used to work at Supercheap. Don't trust their system with anything non australian delivered or anything uncommon, european and japanese cars especially. Alot of the information in it isnt exactly 100% correct and boy did we hear about it when people came back. Sooo many people that work at Supercheaps will talk like they know what theyr on about and theyr just talking off the screen and adding some casual tongue to the convo to get you the sale. If its not ford, holden, or australian delivered in general, be skeptical with anything they give you. My 2c. I hated my job there and eventually quit. Spent half my time telling people to go to Bursons lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
×
×
  • Create New...