Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know how many of you skyline nuts would know this , But the 2.8 Turbo diesel Patrol shares the same bottom end and gearbox and bolts directly onto the engine mounts and straight into the box , And my 2.8 has 250,000 on the clock and runs 16 psi of boost and a diesel chip , and they generally don't last that long . So i'm thinking of chucking a NEO into the Troll . Can you guy's help my out with a fuel pump , injectors , turbo , Ecu and so fourth. I'm looking to make 300 - 350 ponies on 33's and 2.2 Tons of truck , who can help me? And approx pricing?

post-113869-0-83697500-1371454685_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427161-rb25det-neo-in-something-else-d/
Share on other sites

I see this is your very first post on SAU - welcome.

You will be quickly advised to search the forum.

Here's a helping hand to discussion on the same subject:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418647-choosing-the-right-engine/?hl=+rd28

You want a 30 bottom end, you do.

The extra capacity will be well worth it in a 2 ton plus rig.

Even with the low gearing etc, i would have to agree here!

25/30 for you!

If you had to engineer it I'd do an RB30ET to get the numbers right , actually I think pov pak GQ STs had an RB30S (NA carby) std .

Anyway with an RB30ET you get to have an Australian legal engine option - and then if one morning you woke up and found it'd grown a twin cam head in the night - whos to know ? Engine number stays the same .

You're talking about a truck thats 800 Kg more than a 1400 kg R33 Skyline so every low down Nm of torque is a god send

A .

So obviously I'm a noob to this skyline stuff (God forbid I drive a 2012 lancer daily :0 ) , so does the 30 bottom end just bolt straight into the 25's head ? But I keep all the top end accessorys from the 25 ?

Not exactly that easy! There is a whole section dedicated to that topic i believe! If its not something you are familiar with i dont recommend you have a go!

Not exactly that easy! There is a whole section dedicated to that topic i believe! If its not something you are familiar with i dont recommend you have a go!

I've helped mates with multiple engine swaps , from blown 3.0Ls to 4.2s , rb30 carby into an rb30 from a Vl with the turbo , up to 6.0L Vortects into a shorty patrol , I have the mechanical no how , just not the Rb series knowledge hah.

I've helped mates with multiple engine swaps , from blown 3.0Ls to 4.2s , rb30 carby into an rb30 from a Vl with the turbo , up to 6.0L Vortects into a shorty patrol , I have the mechanical no how , just not the Rb series knowledge hah.

Its not likely to be a straight swap, that is what i meant :)

Its not likely to be a straight swap, that is what i meant :)

Ye hah :D , the Rb series seems so swap and play honestly it's ridiculous , but honestly I think I'll keep it simple honestly , all rb25 neo , but a bigger fuel pump and injectors and turbo when it needs it , 90% of my 4wding is sand dunes honestly , we don't have any steep rock tracks or anything hah. Limiter bashing up dunes at night time in a huge sand bowl with 20 cars is about it ;)

Ye hah :D , the Rb series seems so swap and play honestly it's ridiculous , but honestly I think I'll keep it simple honestly , all rb25 neo , but a bigger fuel pump and injectors and turbo when it needs it , 90% of my 4wding is sand dunes honestly , we don't have any steep rock tracks or anything hah. Limiter bashing up dunes at night time in a huge sand bowl with 20 cars is about it ;)

RB's do not like prolonged limiter bashing :P

Aww :( only on special occasions then! Do you know what turbo would be ideal for 300 horses and early spool? And what size injectors?

Oh dear... This has been covered SO many times that i dont know what answer to give you lol...

High flow and a set of 1000s cheapies will do it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...