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The engine supposedly has 120k on it. The engine was tested cold because it won't run at the moment I'm putting in a new air flow meter tommoro and hopefully it fixes the problem as it progressively got worse until it wouldn't start. I'm not sure about compression tester i just bought it and it and no I didn't try putting any oil in, I took each plug out individually and tested the plug back in and moved to the next. The battery is brand new so it should be fine.

How many km's? if it has some bolt on mods already then its possible it may have some poncams dropped in, on a previous car i did this and it dropped from 150 down to 115

And wtf? I've never heard that in my life, cams should not affect maximum compression of engine unless you put em in wrong and bent the valves slightly or you forgot to re-shim and the valves are being held slightly open.

Sorry mungy, that's wrong. Big cams cause the static compression ratio (and in fact the dynamic compression ratio as well, except in the middle of the ram tuning region) to decrease because they keep the inlet valves open longer during the beginning of the compression stroke and let a little bit of the charge back out. This is why you can run a higher comp ratio with bigger cams than you can with smaller cams.

Having said that, dropping from 150 to 115 is a bit excessive and would tend to suggest absolutely massive cams or installed too far retarded.

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I put a new air flow meter in and it did not fix the problem car still will not start It's a series 2 engine and there are no lights on the ecu and I can't run the fault codes through the dash because it in a vl and there is no light hooked up. I'm thinking it may be the CAS is there any way to check it is working?

I put a new air flow meter in and it did not fix the problem car still will not start It's a series 2 engine and there are no lights on the ecu and I can't run the fault codes through the dash because it in a vl and there is no light hooked up. I'm thinking it may be the CAS is there any way to check it is working?

Yes there is a way to check the cas, pull it off and leave it plugged in turn the ignition on and turn the cas with your fingers, if you hear the injectors click it's fine.

Well I checked the ecu and there were no LEDs on it but it had 2 loose wires coming from it with tape on them saying check engine light on one and diagnose on the other. When I put the ignition on the fuel pump kicks in but there is no pressure on the fuel pressure regulator showing and I took a spark plug out and looked on top of the piston and it was dry not a sceric of fuel to be seen. Is it normal for there to be no pressure on the regulator until it starts up or should it b there as soon as the fuel pump primes? And yes there is spark on all cylinders I checked that last nite.

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