Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I noticed quite a bit of oil residue around the (aftermarket) blow off valve. So I opened up the intake piping and found a shitload of oil + water in that murky brown looking shit you get from a blown head gasket. Motor hasn't lost much oil at all infact after driving 1,100 Kms the dipstick is only slightly down from the full mark; I wish I knew how many Kms are on the motor but it seems to be in very good condition.

I bought a replacement turbo from Skyline Spares in Wetherill park. Swapped it over, and my problem is still there possibly worse. The shaft on the new turbo had a small amount of play, but made a slight noise when spun and it would just stop rather than spinning for ages. I was told by the guy who served me this is because they use journal bearings not ball bearings and there obviously wasn't any oil in it.

Was I sold a dodgey turbo? or did I have a different problem to begin with

Thanks

Edited by Blackkers
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427290-swapped-turbo-still-having-problems/
Share on other sites

Sorry I forgot to mention that I was told that it was likely that the seals on the turbo were blown causing oil and water to leak into the intake. Is this correct?

I drained the coolant when I swapped the turbo so I didn't end up checking (there'd be no point in checking the new fluid). Theres no water in the oil though

its more than likely from blow by. do a comp and leakdown test. and install a good catch can so the intake pipe doesnt suck the oil from the head and fill the cooler pipes up.

obviously also clean the piping out

its more than likely from blow by. do a comp and leakdown test. and install a good catch can so the intake pipe doesnt suck the oil from the head and fill the cooler pipes up.

obviously also clean the piping out

seconded.

if the 2nd turbo was making better boost, will also push more oil out of a worn engine.

If hs turbo seals were completely blown he could get water and oil in the pipe work.

There is no water seal in the turbo, the water runs around the core, so there's no way a turbo could leak water internally.

There is no water seal in the turbo, the water runs around the core, so there's no way a turbo could leak water internally.

Is this true? I need to know as I plan to take the turbo off and back to the wrecker today

edit: I still Have water + oil in the intake piping and coming out of the BoV.

WHERE IS THE DAMN WATER COMING FROM!!!?!?

Edited by Blackkers

Coolant is fine, no oil there.

Oil is fine, no water there (hasn't been changed for 4000 kms)

Is a comp test necessary? low compression can't be the cause of water in the intake

When I pulled the first turbo off there was oil sitting in the compressor housing.

edit: I think I need a catch can, previous owner said he removed an ugly looking catch can from the pre-previous owner.

But what about this damn water??

Edited by Blackkers

See how that picture is taken from one of the pipe after the intercooler (i.e between intercooler to throttle body)... Have you inspected the intercooler and or any pipes directly after the turbo to see if there is any build up there?

water is fairly common in catch cans etc. depends on the climate where u are etc.

i have seen catch cans be filled with water from condensation.

for now forget about the water part and treat it as pure oil. diagnose fron there

Is a comp test necessary? low compression can't be the cause of water in the intake

But what about this damn water??

Combustion gases are full of water. Water condenses once it cools down. So worn rings (low compression) let a lot of combustion gases past into the crankcase which then gets into the turbo inlet.

Okay guys tomorrow morning I've booked a compression test. If the motor is fine (which I suspect it is) then I am taking my ORIGINAL turbo to precision turbos out in Wetherill park to get hi-flowed; I was told $1300, has anyone got experience with these guys? does anyone recommend another place for hi-flow with better service or a more competitive price?

I'll search the forums now but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with this.

Thanks

I'd postpone the highflow until you're completely confident you've addressed the current issue. Remember even if the compression test comes back ok, you still have a problem to fix.

Also, dont forget you may need injectors/AFM/programmable ECU and tune = $$$$

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...