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Hey guys I noticed quite a bit of oil residue around the (aftermarket) blow off valve. So I opened up the intake piping and found a shitload of oil + water in that murky brown looking shit you get from a blown head gasket. Motor hasn't lost much oil at all infact after driving 1,100 Kms the dipstick is only slightly down from the full mark; I wish I knew how many Kms are on the motor but it seems to be in very good condition.

I bought a replacement turbo from Skyline Spares in Wetherill park. Swapped it over, and my problem is still there possibly worse. The shaft on the new turbo had a small amount of play, but made a slight noise when spun and it would just stop rather than spinning for ages. I was told by the guy who served me this is because they use journal bearings not ball bearings and there obviously wasn't any oil in it.

Was I sold a dodgey turbo? or did I have a different problem to begin with

Thanks

Edited by Blackkers
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Sorry I forgot to mention that I was told that it was likely that the seals on the turbo were blown causing oil and water to leak into the intake. Is this correct?

I drained the coolant when I swapped the turbo so I didn't end up checking (there'd be no point in checking the new fluid). Theres no water in the oil though

its more than likely from blow by. do a comp and leakdown test. and install a good catch can so the intake pipe doesnt suck the oil from the head and fill the cooler pipes up.

obviously also clean the piping out

its more than likely from blow by. do a comp and leakdown test. and install a good catch can so the intake pipe doesnt suck the oil from the head and fill the cooler pipes up.

obviously also clean the piping out

seconded.

if the 2nd turbo was making better boost, will also push more oil out of a worn engine.

If hs turbo seals were completely blown he could get water and oil in the pipe work.

There is no water seal in the turbo, the water runs around the core, so there's no way a turbo could leak water internally.

There is no water seal in the turbo, the water runs around the core, so there's no way a turbo could leak water internally.

Is this true? I need to know as I plan to take the turbo off and back to the wrecker today

edit: I still Have water + oil in the intake piping and coming out of the BoV.

WHERE IS THE DAMN WATER COMING FROM!!!?!?

Edited by Blackkers

Coolant is fine, no oil there.

Oil is fine, no water there (hasn't been changed for 4000 kms)

Is a comp test necessary? low compression can't be the cause of water in the intake

When I pulled the first turbo off there was oil sitting in the compressor housing.

edit: I think I need a catch can, previous owner said he removed an ugly looking catch can from the pre-previous owner.

But what about this damn water??

Edited by Blackkers

See how that picture is taken from one of the pipe after the intercooler (i.e between intercooler to throttle body)... Have you inspected the intercooler and or any pipes directly after the turbo to see if there is any build up there?

water is fairly common in catch cans etc. depends on the climate where u are etc.

i have seen catch cans be filled with water from condensation.

for now forget about the water part and treat it as pure oil. diagnose fron there

Is a comp test necessary? low compression can't be the cause of water in the intake

But what about this damn water??

Combustion gases are full of water. Water condenses once it cools down. So worn rings (low compression) let a lot of combustion gases past into the crankcase which then gets into the turbo inlet.

Okay guys tomorrow morning I've booked a compression test. If the motor is fine (which I suspect it is) then I am taking my ORIGINAL turbo to precision turbos out in Wetherill park to get hi-flowed; I was told $1300, has anyone got experience with these guys? does anyone recommend another place for hi-flow with better service or a more competitive price?

I'll search the forums now but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with this.

Thanks

I'd postpone the highflow until you're completely confident you've addressed the current issue. Remember even if the compression test comes back ok, you still have a problem to fix.

Also, dont forget you may need injectors/AFM/programmable ECU and tune = $$$$

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