Jump to content
SAU Community

Cylinder Not Running On Idle? R32 Gtr

bilaldabab

By bilaldabab,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have a problem at idle with my GTR, cylinder number 5 is not running when idleing or not under load, When the engine get some load, it kicks back in and runs fine with plenty of power. I have replaced all 6 spark plugs, i have swapped over the coil packs with others and its not a coil pack issue. However when i Unplug the plug to the 5th coilpack, the revs don't change/drop. So I'm guessing it has something to do with the plug/wiring?

Anyone got any advice before i start replacing everything?

I recently replaced the whole engine and got it tuned. This started happening a day after i got it tuned. Took it back to the mechanics who installed the motor and they couldnt find the problem...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Swap your number 1 and 5 coil packs and see if the problem moves. If it does you know where your problem is.

Next, run the engine with the number 5 coil pack out of the head, and with a spare plug in it, sitting on top of the motor and watch for spark. If there is no spark, then its wiring or ignitor.

If there is spark you need to eliminate fuel. Swap the number 5 and 1 injectors and see if the problem moves. If it does, then injector. If not, then potentially wiring or ECU issue.

Borrow a stock /replacement ECU from someone and see how it goes. Have your tuned map uploaded if need be.

  • Like 1
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it could be a blown intake gasket on that cylinder. Get some brake cleaner or wd40 etc and while the car is idling spray around cylinder 5 inlet, throttle gasket and injector oring etc. see if the idle changes

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Swap your number 1 and 5 coil packs and see if the problem moves. If it does you know where your problem is.

Next, run the engine with the number 5 coil pack out of the head, and with a spare plug in it, sitting on top of the motor and watch for spark. If there is no spark, then its wiring or ignitor.

If there is spark you need to eliminate fuel. Swap the number 5 and 1 injectors and see if the problem moves. If it does, then injector. If not, then potentially wiring or ECU issue.

Borrow a stock /replacement ECU from someone and see how it goes. Have your tuned map uploaded if need be.

I have tried swapping my number 1 and number 5 coil packs and it made no change.

I will try the rest when I get a chance this week. Thanks for the info, will let you know how I go!!

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry forgot to mention, also when its a cold start, the revs drop quite a bit and struggles to stay on (turns off most of the time), i need to keep my foot on the accelerator for about 15-20 seconds before it stays on..

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i tried spraying some throttle body cleaner on the injectors earlier, the revs did not change on injectors 1, 2 and 3. however the revs went higher by 100-200 rpm.. when sprayed on injectors 4, 5 and 6.... when i sprayed it on all 3 at once, the revs jumped upto 500 rpm.

Does this mean the intake gasket is leaking towards the back? Could this be the issue or is this an entirely new issue?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Yes sounds like the inlet gasket is blown. Its pretty common to happen as the gasket gets old. I normally replace the inlet and throttle gaskets with a set of metal nitto gaskets. Also check all the hoses under the plenum as they may need replacing while the plenum is out

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Is that the gasket from runners to head? Shouldn't be hard. I think the rb25 plenum to runners is probably the ugliest job to do. I did it without a guide but there should be something readily available. Google change rb26 plenum gasket or intake gasket.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Its a veryfun job to do on RB26's. willtake atkeast 3hours to get off, then cleaning of old gaskets and replacing hoses etc. then atleast 3hours to get back on.

DO NOT CLEAN IN AND AROUND THE THROTTLE BODY BUTTERFLIES!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...