Jump to content
SAU Community

Cylinder Not Running On Idle? R32 Gtr

bilaldabab

By bilaldabab,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have a problem at idle with my GTR, cylinder number 5 is not running when idleing or not under load, When the engine get some load, it kicks back in and runs fine with plenty of power. I have replaced all 6 spark plugs, i have swapped over the coil packs with others and its not a coil pack issue. However when i Unplug the plug to the 5th coilpack, the revs don't change/drop. So I'm guessing it has something to do with the plug/wiring?

Anyone got any advice before i start replacing everything?

I recently replaced the whole engine and got it tuned. This started happening a day after i got it tuned. Took it back to the mechanics who installed the motor and they couldnt find the problem...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Swap your number 1 and 5 coil packs and see if the problem moves. If it does you know where your problem is.

Next, run the engine with the number 5 coil pack out of the head, and with a spare plug in it, sitting on top of the motor and watch for spark. If there is no spark, then its wiring or ignitor.

If there is spark you need to eliminate fuel. Swap the number 5 and 1 injectors and see if the problem moves. If it does, then injector. If not, then potentially wiring or ECU issue.

Borrow a stock /replacement ECU from someone and see how it goes. Have your tuned map uploaded if need be.

  • Like 1
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it could be a blown intake gasket on that cylinder. Get some brake cleaner or wd40 etc and while the car is idling spray around cylinder 5 inlet, throttle gasket and injector oring etc. see if the idle changes

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Swap your number 1 and 5 coil packs and see if the problem moves. If it does you know where your problem is.

Next, run the engine with the number 5 coil pack out of the head, and with a spare plug in it, sitting on top of the motor and watch for spark. If there is no spark, then its wiring or ignitor.

If there is spark you need to eliminate fuel. Swap the number 5 and 1 injectors and see if the problem moves. If it does, then injector. If not, then potentially wiring or ECU issue.

Borrow a stock /replacement ECU from someone and see how it goes. Have your tuned map uploaded if need be.

I have tried swapping my number 1 and number 5 coil packs and it made no change.

I will try the rest when I get a chance this week. Thanks for the info, will let you know how I go!!

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry forgot to mention, also when its a cold start, the revs drop quite a bit and struggles to stay on (turns off most of the time), i need to keep my foot on the accelerator for about 15-20 seconds before it stays on..

bilaldabab Contributor

bilaldabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i tried spraying some throttle body cleaner on the injectors earlier, the revs did not change on injectors 1, 2 and 3. however the revs went higher by 100-200 rpm.. when sprayed on injectors 4, 5 and 6.... when i sprayed it on all 3 at once, the revs jumped upto 500 rpm.

Does this mean the intake gasket is leaking towards the back? Could this be the issue or is this an entirely new issue?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Yes sounds like the inlet gasket is blown. Its pretty common to happen as the gasket gets old. I normally replace the inlet and throttle gaskets with a set of metal nitto gaskets. Also check all the hoses under the plenum as they may need replacing while the plenum is out

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Is that the gasket from runners to head? Shouldn't be hard. I think the rb25 plenum to runners is probably the ugliest job to do. I did it without a guide but there should be something readily available. Google change rb26 plenum gasket or intake gasket.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Its a veryfun job to do on RB26's. willtake atkeast 3hours to get off, then cleaning of old gaskets and replacing hoses etc. then atleast 3hours to get back on.

DO NOT CLEAN IN AND AROUND THE THROTTLE BODY BUTTERFLIES!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • Piggaz
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...