Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im looking at getting this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-NISSAN-Z-300ZX-VG30ET-SOHC-OEM-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-/290887740617?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ba42acc9&vxp=mtr

what else would i need to install this turbo? has anyone done it before and got any tips?
any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427642-vg30-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

Don't do it. That would be shitter than shit. If you want a VG turbo, you want the single turbo from the VG30DET. That is basically the same turbo as the the RB turbos, with an OP6 exhaust housing. A sensible upgrade option on an RB20 that has been done 10^55 times before and the specific tricks (not that there are many) would be found with a few seconds of googling.

VG30 on a 20 is crap, dont do it. I did the swap on my hr31 and it was really laggy, to the point that normal daily driving was a pain in the ass. I changed back to the stock turbo I hated it so much.

Go a highflow of the stock turbo, much better option, not alot of lag but alot of potential, my 32 had this and it made about 230rwkw and less lag then the vg did (tune would also help with that)

Dont put a op6 rear housed turbo on a 20, worst thing you could do in terms of drivability, would only be good if you used it for a highflow and wanted 250rwkw +.

Really any turbo bigger then stock is gonna suck unless you get a tune.

Define "recondition" though. These things are BB centre and ceramic turbine. Recondition usually means highflow which really just ends up meaning keep the front and rear housing and get all new the rest.

not sure what actually done to fix it but it was smoking worse than a ten pack a day cancer candidate , after it was reconned it was all good- no smoke

didnt know the VG30DET turbos were BB but knew about the ceramic part of it

Yep the right ones from the Z32 300ZX quad cam single turbo cars are BB . Really the only usefull thing on them is that OP6 sized turbine housing and it's arguably too big for an RB20DET .

So , many people just fit an RB25 turbo because they are common and generally cheap . Compared to a std 20s turbo the 25s one has a very slightly larger turbine housing and the same sized turbine . The compressor wheel is larger as is the compressor housing and it also has a kind of anti reversion groove machined into its snout .

Your call but I think an RB25s turbo is a better suited to an RB20 and they are much easier to find . Do a few searches and see what others thought about 3L turbos on 2L engines .

A .

I quite liked driving around an R32 with a VG30 OP6 turbo. Wasn't as laggy as the horror stories make out, and gave much more power at 12psi than the RB20 turbo had done at nearly 15. And this is coming from me, who whilst I appreciate that the RB20 is actually a good motor, used to absolutely hate the torqueless characteristic they have until they come on boost.

I must agree however, that if just looking for a mild upgrade, the RB25 21U is a better choice.

Edited by GTSBoy

Yep the right ones from the Z32 300ZX quad cam single turbo cars are BB . Really the only usefull thing on them is that OP6 sized turbine housing and it's arguably too big for an RB20DET .

So , many people just fit an RB25 turbo because they are common and generally cheap . Compared to a std 20s turbo the 25s one has a very slightly larger turbine housing and the same sized turbine . The compressor wheel is larger as is the compressor housing and it also has a kind of anti reversion groove machined into its snout .

Your call but I think an RB25s turbo is a better suited to an RB20 and they are much easier to find . Do a few searches and see what others thought about 3L turbos on 2L engines .

A .

i think youll find the z32 was twin turbo or non turbo not single turbo

Edited by StevenCJR31

No thats not true , there were single turbo versions of the SOHC (per bank) VG30"ET" and DOHC VG30"DET" . The one most people know about is the VG30 "DETT" Which had twin inlet manifolds and forward facing TBs . And a hybrid T2/T25 turbo on each exhaust manifold .

The single turbo ET and DET versions had a crossover pipe behind the heads to feed one turbo from two exhaust manifolds . The ET or Z31 (SOHC) version from memory had a plain bearing ceramic turbo with a smaller center section and no preload bolt head visible on the side .

Have a look at the last couple of pics in this link and note the "Ceramic Turbo" badge .

http://www.geocities.jp/ayanami31rei/Z31-report/656-ayanami300ZR/656-ayanami-with-vg30det.htm

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

yep; there is confusion but it aint coming from me,as i said to disco before the z32 300zx didnt didnt come out with single turbo , it came out with TT or no turbo (VG30DETT or VG30DE)

the vg30det came out in the y31 cima and other luxury japanese cars

it had twin TBs on the passengers side of the engine and has the single(ceramic) turbo which i wilbe putting on my rb30det

I have a VG30DET turbo sitting in one of my R32's at the yard, from memory the 32 was great with it on, i see no issue in using the op6 or 30DET turbo on a 20 as you can put more boost through em than a 20 turbo anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...