Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls!

My boss lady has given me around $600 to spend on my 89' R32 GTS-T Skyline. I'm hoping to find a reliable bolt-on turbo upgrade within the budget? I'm running a blitz tuned computer, high flow exhaust, pod filter, front mount intercooler and adjustable boost controller, running the standard turbo and around 11psi boost. Can anyone suggest a good reliable turbo upgrade so I can get rid of the STD ceramic turbo and wind up the boost reliably?!?!?

Cheers

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428246-rb20-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

^^^ what he said. And $600 is a tad short. I have a HKS 2535 on my skyline I wish to sell. $900firm. With water and oil lines. And HKS elbow. Direct bolt on. Save up for another month and shoot me a pm. :)

  • Like 1

Alas, yes, I thought I'd be pushing a steaming pile up a hill with a pointy stick...

I have spend hours sifting through threads on this great forum but sometimes it's easier to just ask the question directly (even if it has been asked since Adam & Eve were around)

^^^ what he said. And $600 is a tad short. I have a HKS 2535 on my skyline I wish to sell. $900firm. With water and oil lines. And HKS elbow. Direct bolt on. Save up for another month and shoot me a pm. :)

What were you making with the 2535 and what supporting mods did you have? And rb20?

I'm also interested in this turbo in the not too distant future..

235 rwkw on 14psi.computer injectors zorst cooler fuel pump on a rb25. Will be pretty awesome on the rb20 as well but. Had the turbo 6 ish years 15,000km's on it. No chipped/bent fins. No shaft play. $900 pretty firm. With all lines and HKS elbow. Read the rb20 dyno results. Quite a few in there running a HKS 2535. :)

Cheers Josh

235 rwkw on 14psi.computer injectors zorst cooler fuel pump on a rb25. Will be pretty awesome on the rb20 as well but. Had the turbo 6 ish years 15,000km's on it. No chipped/bent fins. No shaft play. $900 pretty firm. With all lines and HKS elbow. Read the rb20 dyno results. Quite a few in there running a HKS 2535. :)

Cheers Josh

Oh okay, sweet.. I'll have a look through that.. I am currently running a t04e high mount.. 18psi.. 171kw :( haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...