Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question about how stock is it possible to leave your car when aiming for higher kw?

Im hoping to get around the 220 mark buy just wondering if theres any mods like injectors and fuel pump and things like that I can actually leave stock and just get tuned to go harder? Are all the mods 100% necessary? Or is it unsafe to try and max out stock parts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428905-stock-as-possible-200-220-kw/
Share on other sites

Because the stock parts are getting on in age, its not ideal to push them to the limits. Having said that it can be done

I would get new injectors (not visible with stock plenum), fuel pump (not visible anyway), High flow turbo (hypergear or similar, wont notice it), boost controller (can be hidden) and computer (wont be seen, not noticable unless you have a hand controller etc)

Exhaust is the only thing that will be noticeable but I guess you could always use a X-Force Varex exhaust to keep it quiet. Intercooler - might need an upgraded side mount or black front mount

Yea I have been told there are some good aftermarket side mount coolers. I have a high flow turbo in my car now but not.pushing it at all, so realky just babying it. I hadn't really conaidered the age of things yet, makes sense to uograde where you can. Thanks :)

Hold off on the Varex for the time being if that's the way you plan to go. Give them a call

I hear that they will have them automated for 4,6.8 cylinder cars based on changing @ RPM by the end of this year and ADR approved.

(with a race mode switch)

Could be just a good rumour but maybe its worth checking out

Front mount

Full 3" exhaust

Fuel pump

Some form of boost controller

Nistune

and thats the cheapest easiest way to go about it. I made 217rwkw like this, the standard turbo had nothing left in, it the afm and injectors are still safe.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

post-63525-0-76896300-1374242678_thumb.jpg

I was told by stao (hypergear) that he could run an actuator in my exhaust system that opens and closes with different boost levels like that varex one which I hadn't heard of before, would that be an alright idea? Because then im guessing he could have it set to open just before boost. And I have been told 220 wasn't too adventurous in the way of power so thanks for the replies, didnt realise it would be that little to do, wont be able to go much harder with stock injectors and fuek pump later on im guessing

I was told by stao (hypergear) that he could run an actuator in my exhaust system that opens and closes with different boost levels like that varex one which I hadn't heard of before, would that be an alright idea? Because then im guessing he could have it set to open just before boost. And I have been told 220 wasn't too adventurous in the way of power so thanks for the replies, didnt realise it would be that little to do, wont be able to go much harder with stock injectors and fuek pump later on im guessing

Similar to this idea? http://www.nengun.com/apexi/exhaust-control-valve

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well.

Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

that looks promising. I wonder if you used a different actuator so that naturally the valve is open and the engine vacuum closes it. That way it is more dependant on throttle position. Don't know what actuator to use though, had to be opposite of a wastage setup. my exhaust has a hooker aeroflow and a berkly straight through and is 87db at 3000rpm so it is legal and makes 284rwkw, so really you could save your cash by not using a varex

Hold off on the Varex for the time being if that's the way you plan to go. Give them a call

I hear that they will have them automated for 4,6.8 cylinder cars based on changing @ RPM by the end of this year and ADR approved.

(with a race mode switch)

Could be just a good rumour but maybe its worth checking out

shall be a very good thing if thats that case as they are a defectable item atm

I've heard you can be defected with the varex system, think it was a "hoon crackdown" thing.on a current affair haha. Is it still legak through the whole rev range? Or is it only to 3, 000 rpm that they test the db?

If you go for the varex get it put in the centre of your system as an oval version and paint it black. If youre like me and plan on using it when being pulled over etc then it will be just about impossible to spot being the centre muffler unless they literally crawl under your car and manage to get a look at the control box on top of the muffler (which you could easily hide anyway). Yes still not legal but a hell of alot easier to convince an officer its a quiet system when they cannot see the valve, especially if you have a discreet twin tip rear muffler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
    • That's correct, suits my requirements a bit better. Sure there are also numpties there, however it's generally a different vibe and more my kind of vibe.
×
×
  • Create New...