Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-7s on a 2.7-2.8 would give you the same or better response then the stock turbs on a 2.6 and given a stroker kit comes with a forged crank rods and Pistons, I would suggest the extra for the kit to get the extra CCs is well worth it for the benefits you get from it :thumbsup:

  • Like 1

The part I always find interesting with these "I want better response" threads is no seems to want to do anything that aids in response

The list of things everyone wants to do to while chasing response

Leave comp standard=wrong

Leave capacity standard=wrong

Fit larger duration cams=wrong

Fit larger turbo chargers=wrong

Even things like exhaust sizing has shown a noticeable difference in response and power right thru the rev range

  • Like 2

Ok, so we are realy gona work on the head, clean it up, up the comp, and leave standed cams with addjusterbal gears, going to set the gates up so they open at the last second and control the gate flutter with EBC, and plenty of tune time on cams and mid range, also looking at e85 options,

Lighten flywheel, stanless dumps and front pipe, are the stanless manifolds worth wile? Or port match the factory and head rap?

are the stanless manifolds worth wile? Or port match the factory and head rap?

As Brett said, tickle the stockers. There is no gains to be made here and you won't be ripping them off to replace/fix them when they fail.

Take that money and buy yourself a front diff.

  • 1 month later...

Post to the top!!

I have -7's on an otherwise stock motor, running a HKS EVC 6 - not the colour version.

As with many others, I was under the impression that boost would be very close to stock.

As you can see in the dyno graph, boost builds very slowly (i reach peak boost 17psi at around 4800-5000 rpm)

I'll be going back to the tuners in Jan for cam gears, larger injectors and a retune, but wondering if winding in more actuator pre-load could help.

Will be turning the boost controller off and seeing what boost i reach running off actuator pressure tomorrow. I have no idea if the previous mechanics checked actuator preload before fitting them.....

Anyway, that's my story.. cool story bro

post-74132-0-30078600-1419924127_thumb.jpg

What's your cam timing

-7s will never match stock ceramics for response :(

When you changed turbos did you reset the wastegate setting on the EBC

You can also adjust the gain on the EVC 6 to get it to ramp up faster

Haven't checked mechanical cam timing yet, but will look at that after NYE.

EBC was installed at the same time as the turbos. It was reset and tuned from there.

I have played with the gain (offset), and have found a sweet spot 113% offset. Any more I lose response... However, I shouldn't need to use the offset function tbh.

I turned off the controller this morning, on wastegate pressure, boosted to 9psi. Might add a few mm of preload to the actuators to get closer to 11psi which i think is the rated spring pressure for -7 turbos.

I know that they will be laggier than stock, but they shouldn't be this laggy

Haven't checked mechanical cam timing yet, but will look at that after NYE.

EBC was installed at the same time as the turbos. It was reset and tuned from there.

I have played with the gain (offset), and have found a sweet spot 113% offset. Any more I lose response... However, I shouldn't need to use the offset function tbh.

I turned off the controller this morning, on wastegate pressure, boosted to 9psi. Might add a few mm of preload to the actuators to get closer to 11psi which i think is the rated spring pressure for -7 turbos.

I know that they will be laggier than stock, but they shouldn't be this laggy

Yeah 16psi at 4000rpm seems normal for -7s so there's definitely something going on with your setup. Upping pre-load seems like a reasonable first step in diagnosis (since its free :) ). Just check that their operation is synchronised with a hand pump after the adjustment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
    • I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)
    • All my Polish car culture insight comes from watching Nightride. So I half expect this to get 1UZ swapped eventually?! Are you going to drive it in winter? I'm always curious how ATTESA would hold up in the snow. There isn't that much opportunity to try it in Australia.  
    • My steering lock unit on my Infiniti G37 has failed. The car is a local 2012 Infiniti G37 (Q60 ) I need to replace the unit My local mechanic said i need to buy a complete steering wheel assembly. Does anybody no any mechanics in Gold Coast or Brisbane who can fix this issue or where i can buy just the Steering lock control unit. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...